Category: Trips

“When are you starting tomorrow?” Christian asked me on Friday evening.

“…”

“7:30?”

“No, 4:30.”

“Seriously? With whom?”

“Well, who do you think?!”

And yes – of course the idea came from Gina. Katja and I didn’t need much convincing. As agreed, we wanted to be back in time for breakfast – the plan: a run before Christian’s workday began.

The hardest part was actually not waking anyone up at 4:00 a.m. The two ladies had already left Vienna at 3:30. We started running from Preiner Gscheid just before 5:00. Above us, a clear starry sky; on the horizon, a faint red glow slowly appeared – exactly as planned.

After about 65 minutes we reached the Karl-Ludwig-Haus. 6:00 a.m. We were earlier than expected, so we decided to keep going – up to the Heukuppe. During dawn we thought: this is actually more beautiful than the sunrise itself. Headlamps off, complete silence – and that moment when the sky shifts from deep blue to pastel pink.

At the top: a sea of fog below us, then the first sunbeams breaking through the clouds. It wasn’t a picture-perfect, crystal-clear sunrise, but one of the quiet, intense kind – and it had everything we could have wished for.

The descent was pleasant, almost buoyant. By around 8:00 we were already sitting at the Waldschlössl, brewing coffee and making new plans.

A perfect start to the day – before the rest of the world had even truly woken up.

The message came on Friday evening:

“On Sunday, we’re going to the Waldburgangerhütte with the kids.” It sounded like a great plan – though we had a few doubts: The hut is closed in July and August. Zita was still busy at the guesthouse in the morning. And: it was going to be the hottest day of the week.

It sounded like a great plan – though we had a few doubts:

The hut is closed in July and August. Zita was still busy at the guesthouse in the morning. And: it was going to be the hottest day of the week.

But luckily, we quickly found solutions:

A slightly later start around 10:50 AM. Christian could already go ahead with the kids, Zita would follow. And instead of stopping at the hut – we packed food and had a picnic at the top. After all, they say: if it’s too hot in the valley, you need to go up the mountain – it’s cooler up there. That was exactly our plan.

Around 11 AM, we met at the edge of the forest – E&H&L&F – ready for a little summer adventure. We followed the yellow-marked trail via the Schedwiese up to the Waldburgangerhütte. The climb was quite something: 6.7 km with 710 meters of elevation gain – especially with four kids.

We took about three hours, including four to five short breaks: a bit of encouragement, some snacks, and lots of water.

At the top, we enjoyed a beautiful picnic break. The kids were full of energy again, the men took a little nap, and the ladies soaked up the fresh mountain air.

For the way down, we chose the blue-marked path via the “Jubiläumsaussicht” – a small detour, but absolutely worth it. In total, it was about 4 km downhill, which took us around 1 hour and 10 minutes – including a scenic break. Suddenly everything went quickly: going downhill, we could barely keep up with the kids.

Back at the bottom, a well-deserved break awaited: coffee, lavender lemonade, watermelon, and ice cream – exactly how you imagine a hot summer day.

The boys continued playing in the garden, Zita returned to the guesthouse – and still, the day already felt wonderfully full. In the evening, Zita got one hour off: a quick bike ride and swim at the Payerbach pool. Thank you!

And by the end of the day, we didn’t need much more: the kids almost fell asleep while brushing their teeth – and we all agreed: that’s what summer should feel like.

Route:

Waldschlössl – (yellow trail) – Schedwiese – Waldburgangerhütte – (blue trail) – Jubiläumsaussicht – Waldschlössl

Ascent: 6.7 km, around 3 hours with kids and breaks

Descent: approx. 4 km, 1:10 h including viewpoint break

Total elevation gain: 740 meter

What’s great about hikes around the Waldschlössl is that even familiar destinations can take on a whole new character when approached from a different direction. This time, our goal was once again the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – but we “attacked” it from a different side.

I’m not sure how well the people who recommend staying active during pregnancy know Christian 😄 – but one thing’s for sure: it’s never boring with him. This hike started out as a gentle walk (we weren’t going all the way up the Rax summit 🏔️).

We set off from Waldschlössl, as usual, and headed toward the Lackabodengraben. The path climbs gradually and pleasantly. Once at the top, instead of turning left toward Knofeleben, we continued straight on the red-yellow-red trail up to the Krummbachstein summit. Although this route is longer (around 4 km instead of the steeper 2 km), it’s much gentler – and we even saw a little snow ❄️ up there.

The sunshine ☀️ stayed with us all day, and – a rare exception – there was no strong wind at the summit. We had the chance to fully enjoy the colors and calm of autumn 🍂🍃.

That day marked the start of my seventh month of pregnancy 🤰, and, as it turned out, it was my last long hike with L2 in my belly. (After that, we only made it as far as Knofeleben.)

We descended via the steeper trail heading toward Knofeleben. Honestly, I wouldn’t recommend this route while pregnant 😅 – but with a break at the house (🍲🍲🍲 and a kid’s paradise: toy chainsaw, train 🚂, tiny cars 🚗, little playground), it turned out quite nice.

From there, we followed the tractor path down toward Eng – an easy and gentle track that even made Leno want to run 🏃. And he did! He ran the first 4 km with us – and even waited for me sometimes, which I deeply appreciated ❤️.

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📍 Route:

Waldschlössl – Lackabodengraben – Krummbachstein – Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – Eng – Mariensteig – Waldschlössl

📏 Distance: 19 km

⛰️ Elevation gain: 1100 m

⏱️ Time: Uphill about 4 hours, downhill (with breaks) about 2 hours

Video: Click here

How could one spend Father’s Day in a better way than alone with one’s two sons? 😅 This morning, Zita heroically sacrificed herself and had to go running all alone – so that the three men could finally enjoy a peaceful Sunday together. 🙌🏻

Of course, the boys made sure everyone was up early – which meant Zita could start her run in good time. From Waldschlössl to Kaiserbrunn, it’s 8.5 km. The path from Hirschwang follows the shady Wiener Wasserleitungsweg, winding along the Schwarza River through the Höllental gorge. If there’s such a thing as a perfect summer trail for running or hiking, this is it: shade, babbling water, little bridges, fresh air – what more could you ask for?

Well, maybe a coffee. But for that, the mountain had to be conquered first. After Kaiserbrunn, the path gets steeper and climbs up toward the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben, with stunning views of the Rax and Schneeberg. On the terrace, a well-earned, life-saving espresso was finally waiting for me. ☕💚

The return route led back along familiar paths through the Eng, and after about an hour I was back at the Waldschlössl. What followed was some well-deserved rest with the boys – or at least something that kind of qualifies as rest when you’re with two small children. 😅

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📍 Route: Waldschlössl – Hirschwang – Wasserleitungsweg – Kaiserbrunn – Miesleitensteig – Knofeleben – Mitterberggraben – Eng – Mariensteig – Waldschlössl

📏 Distance: approx. 20 km

⛰️ Elevation gain: 920 m

🕒 Duration: approx. 3h 30min (let’s call it trail running – or at least speed hiking, including a coffee break)

When your annual family holiday lands at the end of November – and you spend it at home – at least you’re guaranteed not to miss the first snow.

We set out on a short but energetic loop hike, chasing fresh snow up in the hills.

Route:

Waldschlössl – Jubiläumsaussicht – Waldburgangerhütte – Schedkapelle – Werning – Payerbach – Waldschlössl

Details:

📏 ~10 km

📈 +735 m elevation gain

⏱ 2:30 h, brisk pace with a child on Chris’s back

Great views, fresh air, a breezy ridge here and there – we ended tired and happy, with one well-rested kid in the carrier.

“At this point, only a helicopter or mountain rescue could get us down,” Chris muttered as we made our way up to the Heukuppe. The kids, snugly bundled in the hiking carrier and wrap, seemed to sense that this wasn’t the time for wild adventures. They just kept sleeping. And honestly, that was for the best.

We had planned a cozy family hike to the Heukuppe, the highest point of the Rax range. And well—cozy is a matter of perspective.

The Reisstalersteig quickly took us into alpine terrain. Chris murmured, “Hmm, I remember this differently…”—possibly because he’d filed away the short via ferrata under easy, back in his child-free, Carinthian hiking days. Technically, it’s not particularly difficult, but it does require sure-footedness, especially at the start, with a steep section and later, two ladders.

We were well-prepared for the weather—an oversized rain jacket for L2 and Z, a rain cover for the child carrier, warm layers—but the thickening fog and gusty wind still made things uncomfortable.

Leno, not yet three years old at the time (June 2023), climbed more than 300 vertical meters on his own—with great pride and determined little steps. It took us about 2 hours and 40 minutes to reach the Heukuppe with both kids.

We took a longer rest at the Karl-Ludwig-Haus—though not inside, since the hut was closed at the time. We sat in the winter room, ate our packed snacks, breastfed the littlest one, and recharged for the descent.

→ Update 2025: The Karl-Ludwig-Haus is now open again!

The way down via the Schlangenweg to the Waxriegelhaus was much more pleasant—solid footing, wind-sheltered, and the rain finally began to let up. That part took about 2 hours, then another 30 minutes back to the Preiner Gscheid.

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Our route:

Preiner Gscheid – Reisstalersteig – Heukuppe – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Schlangenweg – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

→ approx. 10 km and 960 m of elevation gain/loss

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The summary:

💨 Wind, 🌧️ Rain, 🌫️ Fog

🥾 a demanding trail

👣 a not-quite-three-year-old who earned his elevation gain with grit

The sense of comfort wasn’t in the views, but in the challenges we tackled together and the quiet breathing of the kids.

A family hike that was windy, foggy, and rainy – and all the more memorable because of it.

An adventure blog by Jet

Reichenau is known for its beautiful, sunny days, but even here, November can bring a fair share of fog. The good news? You can still find the sun – you just have to go a bit higher!

Before heading out, check the live webcam of the Rax Seilbahn to see if the mountain is bathing in sunshine. If it is, grab your gear and head up! The easiest way is to take the seilbahn, but for those who like a bit of a challenge, the hike up is well worth the effort.

Getting There

From the first weekend of November, the bus only runs as far as Bertha-Heller-Straße. From this stop, you can hike up to Griessleiten and follow the yellow trail to the Waxriegelhaus. This route winds through smaller forest paths and wider forststrassen, gradually pulling you above the mist into the clear mountain air.

(A Little Extra Adventure

If you’re in the mood for more hiking, consider making a detour up to the Siebenbrunnenwiese and through the Karlgraben. This scenic route offers a bit of a workout, but the views are worth every step. Eventually, you can loop back to the Waxriegelhaus, where you can rest and refuel.)

Refuel and Recharge

At the Waxriegelhaus, Martin, the welcoming Wirt, will have just the right thing to recharge your energy – hearty food, refreshing drinks, and a warm mountain atmosphere. There’s something special about enjoying a meal above the fog, with the sun warming your face and the panoramic views stretching out before you.

Heading Back Down

For the descent, you can take the Helenenquelle trail and follow the Rettenbachgraben back to the bus stop or take the more direct route down from the Waxriegelhaus, as marked on the map.

So, if the November fog has you feeling a bit low, remember – the sun isn’t gone, it’s just a little higher up. Happy hiking! 🌞🗻

Route: Bertha-Heller-Straße – Griesleiten  – Waxriegelhaus – Helenenquelle – Rettenbachgraben – Bertha-Heller-Straße

Distance: 11 km

⏳ Depending on who you’re with, we’ve finished it in anything from 2:30 minutes to 4 hours

Elevation gain: 750 m

I always get a kick out of overhearing Hungarian hikers on the Rax. They tend to assume they’re the only ones around who understand their conversations:
“Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”

But let’s start from the beginning. I’ve owed you this trip report for about two months now, but with another round of Rax-loving guests arriving tomorrow, I finally found the motivation to write it up.

When Zsófi visited us in June, we knew we had to take her on a proper Rax adventure – you know, something for the memory bank. 😉

We set off on a sunny June morning (Zsófi and L) and a bit later in the day (Zita and L2), heading down to the train station in Payerbach. From there, we took a bus to the Preiner Gscheid, where our hike started about 30 minutes later. (And by the way, if you can decipher the bus timetable, you deserve a 10% discount on your next booking – here’s the challenge: Timetable.)

The lower sections of the Reisstalersteig and the Gretchensteig share the same path almost all the way to the Reisstalerhütte. Just before you reach the hut, a steep trail branches off to the right, offering fantastic views – at least until you’re swallowed up by the forest again. This is where Zsófi and L took a quick break, and I, driven by the motto “anything for a peaceful nap”, pushed on with L2.
This stretch eventually leads up to the Gretchensteig itself. Just before the actual via ferrata, there’s a rocky section, which, if you ask me, is trickier than the secured climbing passage that follows – but I’ll let everyone judge that for themselves.

“Wait, is that a kid up there?!”
“Hey, that’s a woman! Where’s her husband? Probably at home mowing the lawn.”
“No way she’s making it up there. We barely managed to come down. There’s got to be another way.”
“Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”

As the Hungarian group (decked out in full via ferrata gear) slowly picked their way down what they clearly considered “challenging” terrain, I had plenty of time to translate their colorful commentary for the Austrian hiker beside me – who, by the way, described the section as “no big deal”. Safe to say, we both got a good laugh out of it. 😉

And honestly, this whole encounter is a perfect example of how the same mountain trail can feel like a completely different challenge depending on who you are and how you approach it.

Once we reached the top, we skipped the usual break at the Karl-Ludwig-Haus and continued straight to the Neue Seehütte. About 30 minutes before reaching the hut, we had to pause for a quick hillside picnic (L2’s idea), before tackling a steeper descent that ended with a fantastic, gluten-free, vegan lentil stew.

The mountain had one last surprise for us – a sudden hailstorm (oh, June, you never fail to keep us on our toes) – before we met back up with Zsófi and L at the Waxriegelhaus. Together, we made it just in time for the last bus down.

Final stats: Roughly 12 km, around 900 meters of elevation gain and loss, and about 5 hours of hiking time with L2, plus three snack breaks. And as a little parting gift, we even caught a rainbow on our way back – a nice way to make up for the earlier hailstorm. 🌈

Preiner Gscheid – Gretchensteig – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Neue Seehütte – Göbl Kühn Steig – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

Somewhere Below Mittagstein

At some point below Mittagstein, I stopped taking photos. Right around then, I also made two important decisions: I need proper hiking boots, and I need trekking poles. Chris, just six weeks post-surgery for his double ligament tear, found the trail pleasant. I found it – how should I put it – rather adventurous.

On a beautiful November day, we embarked on the Preiner Gscheid – Martinsteig – Heukuppe – Habsburghaus – Preiner Wand – Neue Seehütte – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid trail, which is almost 21 km long and includes 1500 meters of elevation gain (+ and -). We spent 7 hours on the trail, taking our time with the ascent, jogging a bit at the top, and enjoying two short breaks. It was just Gina and me, no kids this time.

We drove to Preiner Gscheid by car, where we set off on a new and exciting route for us. The Martinsteig reminded me a bit of the Gretchensteig. After reaching Heukuppe, we continued to the Habsburghaus. By the time we got there, it was, of course, closed, but we still took a break on the terrace. The November sunshine made the moment extra special. The weather was simply perfect.

This hike was a true gem, with stunning views and a peaceful atmosphere, making it well worth the effort.

This year, we celebrated Christmas at home. For December 26th, we planned a short family hike to add some movement to the holiday season.

We took the train to the Wolfsbergkogel stop and started a relaxed circular walk with the extended family, passing the Doppelreiteraussicht and the 20-Schilling viewpoint. This section is perfect for a family outing: only about 2 kilometers long with just 60 meters of elevation gain – and the views are absolutely worth it. Since we were already there, we couldn’t skip the summit of the Wolfsbergkogel either.

After the hike, the family headed back home – and I was granted a few hours of freedom: a quiet Christmas afternoon just for myself. I didn’t hesitate – I set off running.

The route was magical. The calm of winter, the frosty landscape, icy paths here and there, and the golden light of the setting sun created a fairytale atmosphere. I stopped at the Speckbacherhütte for a coffee and a short chat. From there, I continued on familiar trails down into the valley, all the way back to the Waldschlössl.

The full distance came to 17.2 km, with 620 meters of ascent and 1,020 meters of descent. I needed 2 hours and 30 minutes net time.

Route: Wolfsbergkogel – Falkenstein – Ortshof – Speckbacherhütte – Mayerhöfen – Waldschlössl.

Festive spirit, family hike, winter nature, silence, trail running – everything one could wish for at Christmas.