Category: Difficult

Beyond the Peaks of the Schneeberg

In Memory of Pascal Le Bail

One day, all that will remain are the shared experiences. The moments we lived together. Songs, scents, sounds. The memories.

May 27, 2008

My father was 54 years old when, while mowing the lawn, a sudden heart attack took him from us within seconds. One wrong move, an unexpected illness. And suddenly, everything changes.

July 20, 2024 – Saturday

Anne, a dear running friend from Vienna, wrote: “Tomorrow: Weichtalklamm, Schneeberg, Buchtelhütte and back – with Pascal.” A quick check-in with Christian – the boys were heading to St. Corona for a “guys’ day” – and I got the green light.

This tour had been on my bucket list for a long time. But I kept postponing it. On the one hand, I wasn’t sure whether it was a good idea to hike through the Weichtalklamm on my own (even though Christian put it this way: “Of course I know it – I used to RUN down that route.” 🤪)
On the other hand, such a tour requires at least half a day off. Today, everything aligned perfectly.

July 21, 2024 – Sunday

By 8:30 a.m. I was already at the bus stop in Payerbach. I was one of the last to board – the bus was full after that. Of course, Anne and Pascal were among the first. Shortly after nine, we arrived at the Weichtalhaus in the Höllental.

The gorge was breathtaking. The steep trail, the rocks, the ladders, the climbing – every step felt like it was pulling us upward with some invisible strength. It’s rare to go on a trail run or mountain hike with three people where everything just flows: no explanations, no waiting – like a well-practiced team. I have never met a more cautious and thoughtful man in the mountains than Pascal. He knew and respected the area like very few others.

By 10:30 a.m. we reached the Kienthalerhütte, and shortly before noon we stood together at the summit of the Klosterwappen – 2,076 meters – the highest point of the Schneeberg. From there we continued quickly to the Baumgartner hut – Anne and Pascal were rewarded with a well-earned Buchtel, and I got a large elderflower juice. Just a few minutes later, we jogged on – through the Lackabodengraben, across the Eng, along the Mariensteig, and finally down to the Waldschlössl.

There are tours that are about more than just running. They are moments that etch themselves deep into memory. This day was one of them.

—

Route:

Weichtalhaus – Weichtalklamm – Kienthalerhütte – Klosterwappen – Schutzhütte Baumgartner – Lackabodengraben – Eng – Mariensteig – Waldschlössl

Distance: approx. 21.7 km

Elevation gain/loss: +1,585 m / –1,558 m

Duration: trail running, 5 hours 45 minutes total, including two short breaks

—

End of August 2024

About a month later, the news arrived:

“Hohe Wand. 54-year-old man fatally injured while climbing.”

July 21, 2024

On the trail between the Kienthalerhütte and the Klosterwappen, there is a cross. We arrived there at exactly 11:00 a.m.
We paused for a moment, taking in the view. Pascal could name every peak around us. He knew the mountains. A strange feeling came over me as we read the inscription on the cross:

“Stop and read:

What you are now, I once was.

What I am now, you shall one day be,

And you too will be covered by the same earth…”

No grand words were needed. Only the steps. The rocks. The July sunshine. The silence. The moments that remain. And the gratitude for the time shared.

Where It All Began – From the Waldschlössl to the Summit of the Schneeberg 🏔️🏃🏼

It’s been over three years since we started the Waldschlössl project, and ever since then, I (Christian) hadn’t been back up the Schneeberg – even though, when viewed from the Schwarzatal, the Waldschlössl quite literally sits on its slope. During those first years, before we had moved into the Waldschlössl, I hardly went hiking at all – I only came here to work on the construction site.

Only after we moved to Schneedörfl did mountain hikes slowly return to our lives – but they usually led to the Rax or, at most, to the Krummbachstein on “our side” of the valley.

And yet, the thought never really left me. People often ask how I came up with the idea for the Waldschlössl project – and then I tell them about my earlier hikes: from Puchberg up the Schneeberg, then down via the Eng, past what is now our home, and finally to the train station in Payerbach-Reichenau. At the end of those hikes, I often found myself thinking, “You should live here someday.” Over time, a mix of wistfulness and ambition grew out of those memories – and that’s what ultimately motivated me to take on the Schneeberg again, after all these years.

Zita kindly offered to take care of the kids that Sunday – so I set off early in the morning at 6:05. The mist in the valley had just started to lift, everything was still damp from the night, but otherwise, the weather was perfect for a mountain tour.

I made good progress: by 7:09 I was already at Knofeleben, then headed straight on to the Krummbachstein (on the summit by 7:43), took a short break, and jogged down to the Krummbachsattel. From there, I climbed the Emmysteig trail up to what I call the “half-shoe hiker highway” – the wide path that runs from the upper station of the Schneeberg cog railway to the Fischerhütte.

That’s where I met the first other hikers of the day. Still, it’s a stretch you can jog again for a bit, before reaching the final steep climb to the Klosterwappen.

At 9:21, I stood on the summit – the highest point of the Schneeberg. I ate my sandwich, enjoyed the quiet (and the fact that there were still only a few people around), and after a 10-minute rest, I started heading back down.

I returned to the Krummbachsattel via the same path, but skipped the Krummbachstein this time. Instead, I ran down via Alpleck, through the Lackabodengraben, and along the Eng – practically in one go – back home.

At exactly 11:29, I arrived at the Waldschlössl – just in time for a warm lunch. Thanks, Zita 😉

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📍 Route: Waldschlössl – Knofeleben – Krummbachstein – Krummbachsattel – Emmysteig – Klosterwappen – Krummbachsattel – Alpleck – Lackabodengraben – Eng – Waldschlössl

📏 Distance: 26 km

⬆️ Elevation gain: approx. 1800 m

⏱️ Duration: Ascent 3:15 h, summit break 10 min, descent 2:05 h 🏃‍♂️ (trail running – when your pregnant wife and toddler are waiting at home with a hot lunch)

🏔 A Not-So-Everyday Schneeberg Hike with a Three-Month-Old Baby

How do you plan a hiking day with a baby carrier and as little gear as possible?

Simple: First, you write a list of the essentials. Then you head out – and leave the list at home. From that point on, all you really need is one thing: improvisation. (Sometimes in very literal ways – like sliding down snow. Without a sled. But we’ll get to that later.)

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At 8:05 a.m., just 200 meters from the Waldschlössl, our neighbor Regina asked me:

– “Are you heading up to Marco today?”

And I honestly didn’t even know yet if we’d make it to the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben.

The route? A Sunday classic: through the Eng, then instead of taking the Mitterberggraben turnoff, we went right toward the Lackabodengraben and continued on the trail toward Krummbachstein.


At the Krummbachsattel, the question arose:

➡️ Should we keep going toward the Schneeberg?

Or

☀️ Stay near Knofeleben, take it easy and enjoy a proper break?

Well:

👶 The baby was asleep.

🌞 The sun was shining.

🌡 The temperature was perfect.

🕙 And it was only 10:00 a.m.

So, we kept going.

⸻

At the ruins of Baumgartnerhaus (10:45), L2 woke up. We found a wind-sheltered spot with some shade and had a quick snack break (🤱🏼).

15 minutes later: another stop – L2 was still not fully on board (🤱🏼). Since I wasn’t sure if the last cogwheel train really left at 3:15 p.m., there wasn’t much room for hesitation. We had to move.

The next stretch was steep and rocky – L2 was not impressed. But after five minutes of mild protest, he fell back asleep. By exactly 12:00 noon, we made it to the top – and I was honestly just relieved we’d made it past that section.

What followed was just a pleasant walk to the Klosterwappen (1:05 p.m.). Truly pleasant. Until we hit a small patch of snow (or rather, ice) just below the Fischerhütte. L2 woke up again – and made it very clear he would prefer to keep sleeping. With curious hikers watching, a slippery path ahead, and the decision came quickly: Sit down in the snow, grab the rope – and slide. Well, I slid. On my butt. L2 screamed. Two minutes later: back asleep. Win.

⸻

All the planned stops (Damböckhaus, Fischerhütte, and Damböckhaus again) were skipped – L2 was sleeping too deeply. And just like that, we found ourselves at the final station of the Schneebergbahn at 2:05 p.m.

⸻

On the train, no one guessed that we hadn’t just hiked down from the Klosterwappen –but had walked the whole way from Reichenau, with baby carrier and all. By 3:00 p.m., we were already waiting in Puchberg for the replacement bus.

I’d love to say that the last walk from Payerbach back to the Waldschlössl was the perfect end to the day – but honestly, those last 90 vertical meters felt more like crawling and silent mantras than hiking, especially three months postpartum. L2? Blissfully napping again.

⸻

📍 Route:

Waldschlössl – Eng – Lackabodengraben – Krummbachsattel – Klosterwappen – Fischerhütte – Damböckhaus – Hochschneeberg mountain station

📏 16.7 km

📈 1,650 m ascent

📉 400 m descent

🕒 6 hours (including two short breaks)

👶 1 baby in the front carrier, backpack in the back

🎒 0 sled

😅 1 slide on the butt

❤️ 100% memories

A Wild Kind of Comfort – A Carinthian-Style Hike to the Heukuppe

“At this point, only a helicopter or mountain rescue could get us down,” Chris muttered as we made our way up to the Heukuppe. The kids, snugly bundled in the hiking carrier and wrap, seemed to sense that this wasn’t the time for wild adventures. They just kept sleeping. And honestly, that was for the best.

We had planned a cozy family hike to the Heukuppe, the highest point of the Rax range. And well—cozy is a matter of perspective.

The Reisstalersteig quickly took us into alpine terrain. Chris murmured, “Hmm, I remember this differently…”—possibly because he’d filed away the short via ferrata under easy, back in his child-free, Carinthian hiking days. Technically, it’s not particularly difficult, but it does require sure-footedness, especially at the start, with a steep section and later, two ladders.

We were well-prepared for the weather—an oversized rain jacket for L2 and Z, a rain cover for the child carrier, warm layers—but the thickening fog and gusty wind still made things uncomfortable.

Leno, not yet three years old at the time (June 2023), climbed more than 300 vertical meters on his own—with great pride and determined little steps. It took us about 2 hours and 40 minutes to reach the Heukuppe with both kids.

We took a longer rest at the Karl-Ludwig-Haus—though not inside, since the hut was closed at the time. We sat in the winter room, ate our packed snacks, breastfed the littlest one, and recharged for the descent.

→ Update 2025: The Karl-Ludwig-Haus is now open again!

The way down via the Schlangenweg to the Waxriegelhaus was much more pleasant—solid footing, wind-sheltered, and the rain finally began to let up. That part took about 2 hours, then another 30 minutes back to the Preiner Gscheid.

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Our route:

Preiner Gscheid – Reisstalersteig – Heukuppe – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Schlangenweg – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

→ approx. 10 km and 960 m of elevation gain/loss

⸻

The summary:

💨 Wind, 🌧️ Rain, 🌫️ Fog

🥾 a demanding trail

👣 a not-quite-three-year-old who earned his elevation gain with grit

The sense of comfort wasn’t in the views, but in the challenges we tackled together and the quiet breathing of the kids.

A family hike that was windy, foggy, and rainy – and all the more memorable because of it.

Speedy Aunties on the Rax – A Mother’s Day Trail

Forget brunch – this Mother’s Day, we decided to conquer the Rax. We kicked off our adventure at the parking lot by the main road, strapped on our backpacks, and hit the Rudolfsteig. Just 3 kilometers in, and we’d already climbed 850 meters. Anne’s smile might not have been entirely genuine on some of the more exposed sections, but who could blame her? The views made it all worth it.

The trail continued steeply through the forest, and after around 4 kilometers and 1100 meters of climbing, we reached the Gloggnitzer Hütte – the perfect spot for a quick breather and a warm elderflower drink.

For the descent, we opted for the faster route: a wide forest road through Hirschtal and on into the Kleine Höllental.

17 kilometers with 1200 meters of elevation gain in just 4 hours – the official time to the hut alone is 4.5 hours. Now that’s a Mother’s Day we can get behind – powerful, together, and packed with altitude.

Höllental Parkplatz – Rudolfsteig – Gloggnitzer Hütte – Großer Kesselgraben – Hirschtal – Kleines Höllental (forest road) and back

Parking: Here

Elevation Instead of Flowers – A Name Day on the Trail

“A 30 km loop with 1,500 meters of elevation gain, ideally with three 500-meter climbs – can you be our guide for that?” Egon asked me a few weeks ago.

“Sure,” I said. “We’ll just squeeze in a couple of coffee breaks—then you’ll get your three climbs.”

“Let’s keep it focused,” Egon added. “The goal is to finish in under six hours.”

Challenge accepted.

That was the simple plan. It was surprisingly crisp when I stood in front of the Waldschlössl at 7:15 a.m.—but the slight tingle in my legs told me: today would be something special.

By 8:30, we were already at the top of the first climb (700 m gain). Egon grinned, clearly pleased. I took a five-minute break—almost mandatory according to my training plan. That morning, the apple juice with hot water at the Knofeleben mountain hut tasted like a holiday drink. Cheers to that!

Since moving to Austria, I sometimes forget that in Hungary, we celebrate name days. But honestly—what better way to spend it than out on the trails with someone like Egon? A trail expert, running buddy, and all-around motivator.

He was the one who introduced me to trail running—before we even moved to Reichenau—after I got into ultrarunning through him. And today, he showed me something new again: how to use trail poles properly (thanks, Anne!) and how to run downhill efficiently.

Single trails? Bring it on!

Our route:

Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Knofeleben – Krummbachstein – Emmysteig – Waxriegel – Baumgartner – Bodenwiese – Waldburgangerhütte – Waldschlössl.

By the end, my watch showed 29.7 km and 1,770 meters of elevation gain in 5:45, including breaks—featuring (more or less) three solid, rewarding climbs.

A name day morning filled with views, apple juice, trail running, two summit crosses, lots of laughs, new skills—and one (or rather two) big smiles. And the sense of being exactly where I’m meant to be.

Preiner Gscheid – Gretchensteig – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Neue Seehütte – Göbl Kühn Steig – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

I always get a kick out of overhearing Hungarian hikers on the Rax. They tend to assume they’re the only ones around who understand their conversations:
“Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”


But let’s start from the beginning. I’ve owed you this trip report for about two months now, but with another round of Rax-loving guests arriving tomorrow, I finally found the motivation to write it up.

When Zsófi visited us in June, we knew we had to take her on a proper Rax adventure – you know, something for the memory bank. 😉

We set off on a sunny June morning (Zsófi and L) and a bit later in the day (Zita and L2), heading down to the train station in Payerbach. From there, we took a bus to the Preiner Gscheid, where our hike started about 30 minutes later. (And by the way, if you can decipher the bus timetable, you deserve a 10% discount on your next booking – here’s the challenge: Timetable.)

The lower sections of the Reisstalersteig and the Gretchensteig share the same path almost all the way to the Reisstalerhütte. Just before you reach the hut, a steep trail branches off to the right, offering fantastic views – at least until you’re swallowed up by the forest again. This is where Zsófi and L took a quick break, and I, driven by the motto “anything for a peaceful nap”, pushed on with L2.
This stretch eventually leads up to the Gretchensteig itself. Just before the actual via ferrata, there’s a rocky section, which, if you ask me, is trickier than the secured climbing passage that follows – but I’ll let everyone judge that for themselves.

“Wait, is that a kid up there?!”
“Hey, that’s a woman! Where’s her husband? Probably at home mowing the lawn.”
“No way she’s making it up there. We barely managed to come down. There’s got to be another way.”
“Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”

As the Hungarian group (decked out in full via ferrata gear) slowly picked their way down what they clearly considered “challenging” terrain, I had plenty of time to translate their colorful commentary for the Austrian hiker beside me – who, by the way, described the section as “no big deal”. Safe to say, we both got a good laugh out of it. 😉

And honestly, this whole encounter is a perfect example of how the same mountain trail can feel like a completely different challenge depending on who you are and how you approach it.




Once we reached the top, we skipped the usual break at the Karl-Ludwig-Haus and continued straight to the Neue Seehütte. About 30 minutes before reaching the hut, we had to pause for a quick hillside picnic (L2’s idea), before tackling a steeper descent that ended with a fantastic, gluten-free, vegan lentil stew.

The mountain had one last surprise for us – a sudden hailstorm (oh, June, you never fail to keep us on our toes) – before we met back up with Zsófi and L at the Waxriegelhaus. Together, we made it just in time for the last bus down.

Final stats: Roughly 12 km, around 900 meters of elevation gain and loss, and about 5 hours of hiking time with L2, plus three snack breaks. And as a little parting gift, we even caught a rainbow on our way back – a nice way to make up for the earlier hailstorm. 🌈

Preiner Gscheid – Gretchensteig – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Neue Seehütte – Göbl Kühn Steig – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

Closed Until 2028 Waldschlössl – Jagdsteig – Mittagstein – Waldburgangerhütte – Eng – Wald

Somewhere Below Mittagstein

At some point below Mittagstein, I stopped taking photos. Right around then, I also made two important decisions: I need proper hiking boots, and I need trekking poles. Chris, just six weeks post-surgery for his double ligament tear, found the trail pleasant. I found it – how should I put it – rather adventurous.

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