Last week, we took advantage of the beautiful spring weather and headed to the Waxriegelhaus. A special thanks to our wonderful neighbor, who not only kept us company but also made Leno’s midday nap possible – carrying a child on your back is no small feat! ❤️
We started at the Preiner Gscheid, sitting at 1,070 meters, just a 20-minute drive from our place, though it’s also accessible by bus from spring to autumn. From here, you have a few options for reaching the Waxriegelhaus: • The longer, more gradual tractor path: about 3.5 km one way, with 300 to 350 meters of elevation gain – perfect for a steady hike. • The steeper, shorter route: around 1.5 km one way, with the same elevation gain, for those who like a bit of a challenge.
Despite the usual snow at this altitude, we were lucky to enjoy bright sunshine, breathtaking views over a sea of fog, and a fantastic lentil stew at the Waxriegelhaus as a reward.
We took about 1.5 hours for the 3.8 km round trip, including a short nap break for Leno on the way up. On the way down, we had to pick up the pace to keep up with our little “express train,” who decided to tackle the whole descent on foot.
It’s an ideal short hike for families, and if there’s enough snow, it’s even perfect for a sled ride back down. On clear days, you can also continue up to the Rax peaks for even more spectacular views.
I always get a kick out of overhearing Hungarian hikers on the Rax. They tend to assume they’re the only ones around who understand their conversations: “Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”
But let’s start from the beginning. I’ve owed you this trip report for about two months now, but with another round of Rax-loving guests arriving tomorrow, I finally found the motivation to write it up.
When Zsófi visited us in June, we knew we had to take her on a proper Rax adventure – you know, something for the memory bank. 😉
We set off on a sunny June morning (Zsófi and L) and a bit later in the day (Zita and L2), heading down to the train station in Payerbach. From there, we took a bus to the Preiner Gscheid, where our hike started about 30 minutes later. (And by the way, if you can decipher the bus timetable, you deserve a 10% discount on your next booking – here’s the challenge: Timetable.)
The lower sections of the Reisstalersteig and the Gretchensteig share the same path almost all the way to the Reisstalerhütte. Just before you reach the hut, a steep trail branches off to the right, offering fantastic views – at least until you’re swallowed up by the forest again. This is where Zsófi and L took a quick break, and I, driven by the motto “anything for a peaceful nap”, pushed on with L2. This stretch eventually leads up to the Gretchensteig itself. Just before the actual via ferrata, there’s a rocky section, which, if you ask me, is trickier than the secured climbing passage that follows – but I’ll let everyone judge that for themselves.
“Wait, is that a kid up there?!” “Hey, that’s a woman! Where’s her husband? Probably at home mowing the lawn.” “No way she’s making it up there. We barely managed to come down. There’s got to be another way.” “Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”
As the Hungarian group (decked out in full via ferrata gear) slowly picked their way down what they clearly considered “challenging” terrain, I had plenty of time to translate their colorful commentary for the Austrian hiker beside me – who, by the way, described the section as “no big deal”. Safe to say, we both got a good laugh out of it. 😉
And honestly, this whole encounter is a perfect example of how the same mountain trail can feel like a completely different challenge depending on who you are and how you approach it.
Once we reached the top, we skipped the usual break at the Karl-Ludwig-Haus and continued straight to the Neue Seehütte. About 30 minutes before reaching the hut, we had to pause for a quick hillside picnic (L2’s idea), before tackling a steeper descent that ended with a fantastic, gluten-free, vegan lentil stew.
The mountain had one last surprise for us – a sudden hailstorm (oh, June, you never fail to keep us on our toes) – before we met back up with Zsófi and L at the Waxriegelhaus. Together, we made it just in time for the last bus down.
Final stats: Roughly 12 km, around 900 meters of elevation gain and loss, and about 5 hours of hiking time with L2, plus three snack breaks. And as a little parting gift, we even caught a rainbow on our way back – a nice way to make up for the earlier hailstorm. 🌈
At the second junction, we take the middle road toward Talhof, then the second forest path on the right – the one that leads up to the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben. No need for heavy packs today, since we know we’ll be up there in less than two hours, and we can skip cooking for the day. Marco’s Naturfreundehaus is one of those rare places where both of us have plenty of options: almost everything on the menu is gluten-free, and the vegan selection keeps growing. Today’s menu:
Pumpkin soup for L2, Ch, and Z Potato goulash with beans for L1, L2, and Z Blueberry strudel for Christian and L1 And, of course, a special oat milk latte for Z, as Marco likes to say, “Just for Mrs. Waldschlössl.” 😉
Both the hike up and down took about 1 hour 45 minutes each. Impressively, L1 managed the entire descent on his own, except for a 500-meter stretch. (On the way up, though, he mostly hitched a ride or took his time, so the boys – Ch and L1 – arrived about 20 minutes after us, but at least we had a table waiting by then.)
Route: Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – and back
Total: about 11.75 km, 730 meters of elevation gain.
At some point below Mittagstein, I stopped taking photos. Right around then, I also made two important decisions: I need proper hiking boots, and I need trekking poles. Chris, just six weeks post-surgery for his double ligament tear, found the trail pleasant. I found it – how should I put it – rather adventurous.
As we prepare to open our café, we’ve been gathering all sorts of experiences – the good, the bad, and the delicious. Here, we’ve put together a list of our favorite gluten-free options in the area, but as always, be sure to double-check when you visit. This is just a quick overview to help you navigate the local restaurants, mountain huts, and shops.
Schloss Stuben
A traditional Austrian inn with a cozy, rustic vibe. So far, the trout with lecsó has been a reliable gluten-free choice. Haven’t tested the rest of the menu yet, but there are always salads and other safe options. 🌐 schloss-stube.gusti.at
Payerbacherhof
Another classic Austrian spot with a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The staff are very attentive, but be sure to mention celiac disease clearly – and maybe even double-check. 🌐 payerbacherhof.at
Reichenauerhof
One of our all-time favorites – we’ve never had any trouble finding gluten-free options here. Sadly, it’s temporarily closed at the moment. 🌐 reichenauerhof.com
Cake Shop:
Le petit Pâtisserie
A charming little patisserie in Reichenau, known for its stunning cakes. The owner, Sophie Hirschegger, puts incredible effort into her creations. They’re as delicious as they are beautiful. Note: the opening hours are a bit limited.
Both stores have a solid selection of gluten-free products. Each has a dedicated gluten-free section, and Billa even offers gluten-free Kaiser rolls in the frozen aisle.
Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben
About 6.5 km and 700 meters of elevation from us, this is one of our favorite hiking destinations. It’s not accessible by car, but it’s worth the trek. Nearly everything here is gluten-free unless obviously not (e.g., bread, certain soups). Just ask Marco, the hut manager, for guidance. 🌐 knofeleben.at
Speckbacher Hütte
Another great hiking destination, though this one is also reachable by car. Alexandra, the hut keeper, is very knowledgeable about gluten-free options and always happy to help. Highly recommended. 🌐 die-speckbacher.at
Looshaus am Kreuzberg
A popular spot with fantastic views and excellent food. We’ve had great experiences here every time – never a problem with gluten-free options. 🌐 looshaus.at
Waldburgangerhütte
About 4 km (and 650 meters of elevation) from Waldschlössl, this hut is run by Maria, who bakes and cooks everything herself. The lentil soup and cranberry cake are both gluten-free. The hut is open on weekends and public holidays from May 1 to June 30, and from September 1 to October 26.
Pottschacherhütte
A good choice if you’re planning a longer hike or a relaxed bike ride, or if you prefer a shorter walk from the parking area. Just ask Bianca, the hut keeper, about gluten-free options. 🌐 pottschacherhuette.naturfreunde.at
Waxriegelhaus (Rax)
One of our top winter spots. Just a 20-minute drive from Waldschlössl to Preiner Gscheid, then a 3.5 km hike up (or 1.8 km if you take the shortcut over the meadows – about 300-350 meters of elevation gain). They usually have soup, lentil stew, and occasionally sausages and gluten-free bread.
In winter, the way back down is a fun 1.8 km sledding run. In spring and summer, it’s a great family destination or a nice spot to wait for the bus after a longer Rax tour. 🌐 waxriegelhaus.naturfreunde.at
Neue Seehütte (Rax)
I’ve generally had good experiences with smaller huts where you can talk directly to the owner, and this one is no exception. The lentil soup was a safe choice here, as it often is. 🌐 neue-seehuette.at
Damböckhaus (Schneeberg)
Another absolute recommendation. About 15-20 minutes from the cog railway’s top station on Schneeberg, or about an hour if you take the route via Waxriegel. For those feeling ambitious, you can hike up all the way from us – but that’s quite a trek, so let’s chat about it first. They usually have gluten-free rolls, lentil soup, and more. 🌐 damboeckhaus.at
A bit of a local secret for those skiing at Stuhleck. You’ll need to ask about gluten-free options, but they usually have one or two good choices. 🌐 friedrichhuette.at
On a beautiful November day, we embarked on the Preiner Gscheid – Martinsteig – Heukuppe – Habsburghaus – Preiner Wand – Neue Seehütte – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid trail, which is almost 21 km long and includes 1500 meters of elevation gain (+ and -). We spent 7 hours on the trail, taking our time with the ascent, jogging a bit at the top, and enjoying two short breaks. It was just Gina and me, no kids this time.
We drove to Preiner Gscheid by car, where we set off on a new and exciting route for us. The Martinsteig reminded me a bit of the Gretchensteig. After reaching Heukuppe, we continued to the Habsburghaus. By the time we got there, it was, of course, closed, but we still took a break on the terrace. The November sunshine made the moment extra special. The weather was simply perfect.
This hike was a true gem, with stunning views and a peaceful atmosphere, making it well worth the effort.
