Chasing Views & Sandwiches – A Child-Friendly Summit Adventure 🏔️

We’ve been living at the Waldschlössl for over three years now, and even though we’ve explored the Rax countless times, we’ve somehow always skipped the Jakobskogel. It’s one of those classic peaks on the Rax that’s popular with tourists – reachable even for us mere mortals who don’t want to hike 10–20 km or conquer 700–800 meters of elevation. We added our own twist: 🚲 cycling, 🚡 a cable car ride, windy 📸 photo ops, and a real summit push. 🏞️

The lower station of the Rax cable car is located in Hirschwang, about 6.5 km from our home. With our electric bikes and a bike trailer (Z + L1 + L2), we made it there in about 25 minutes. Those who prefer not to pedal can choose to go by 🚗 car, 🚌 scheduled bus, or use the flexible Rufbus service.

The cable car quickly took us up the mountain (1,546 m), and from there we headed toward the Jakobskogel. The summit is at 1,736 meters, and is supposed to be about an hour’s walk from the station – it took us closer to 1.5 hours, but we had to inspect every second bush. 🌿👀

The Ottohaus was the perfect spot for a snack break 🧃🥪. While L1 enjoyed a well-earned snack with Nana, the rest of us (Aunt Gi, Z and L2) made the most of the windy but sunny weather to take some fresh family 📷 photos at the top.

The hike there and back is around 6 km, with 240 meters of elevation gain. At a relaxed, family-friendly pace, it took us about 2.5 hours. If you still have a bit of energy left on the way down, it’s well worth taking a short detour to the Höllentalaussicht for a breathtaking view of the entire valley. 🌄✨

🗺️ Route: Hirschwang – Rax Cable Car – upper station – Ottohaus – Jakobskogel – return

🥾 Distance: approx. 6 km round trip

📈 Elevation gain: 240 m

🕒 Time: approx. 2.5 hours at a kid-friendly pace

🎒 It turned into a perfect family outing: aunt, grandma, friends, kids, cable car, mountaintop – everything you’d want in a day that ends with both kids sleeping soundly. 💤 A few more photos for the family album, some shared memories – and another summit conquered. 💚🏞️

Sonnwendstein with Kids and Friends – A Waldschlössl-Style Warm-Up Before the Race Day

On what was just another working Saturday – at least according to Christian, who was busy building the greenhouse – Z and the two Ls set off to make the most of the sunshine, our Lower Austria Card, and most of all, the great company of our friends from Vienna

This day was all about tapering – with a trail running race ahead for L1 and me the next day, this hike was more of a gentle warm-up and a laid-back day (Spoiler: It wasn’t).

Our logistics worked like a charm: we rolled down to the train station by bike, had our snack on the train, L2 took a short but efficient nap, and soon we arrived in Semmering. From there, we headed towards the cable car and met up with our friends from Vienna: kids company ✅, hiking motivation ✅.

A few minutes later, the gondola took us up to Hirschenkogel – a familiar place for the kids from last year, with its awesome playground, water fun, marble run, climbing frames, and pre-lunch picnic. From there, we continued on the panorama trail towards Sonnwendstein. It’s a bit longer and steeper than the forest route, but the views are stunning – and from the big cross near the summit, you get almost the same breathtaking vista as from the actual peak. Since I had sworn just three weeks earlier not to climb that mountain again for a while (More), this was a great alternative. Everyone agreed: one summit a day is plenty 😅.

All four kids hiked with enthusiasm. We carried the little ones now and then, while the two older boys managed to walk most of it on their own. When L1 got tired of the uphill, we did what Boribon (a Hungarian bear from a children’s book) would do after falling and bumping his knee: he carried the backpack, I carried him. Or in his words:

“Mum, I’m in the front, because L2 is in the back!”

At Pollereshütte, they had tasty local dishes, plus a gluten-free and vegan lentil stew – highly recommended. After a short rest, we headed back down via the forest trail.

Finally, we took the gondola down again – and thanks to our friends, we even got a ride back to the Semmering train station. From there, it was a smooth trip home.

Route: Semmering Train Station – Passhöhe – Cable Car – Hirschenkogel – Sonnwendstein (Pollereshütte) – Hirschenkogel – Cable Car – Semmering Train Station

Hiking Distance:

From the train station to the cable car base: about 1.8 km, 100 meters elevation gain. L1 and I did it in 20 minutes at a brisk pace.

Hirschenkogel–Pollereshütte–Hirschenkogel: 7.8 km with 336 meters elevation gain. With four kids under five, it took us 3 hours and 15 minutes.

Two Heartbeats Along the Semmering Railway Trail

Since last summer, this little half-marathon had been on my mind, previously only dreamed up on a map. Thanks to Nana, I finally made it happen. I trimmed a few kilometers, as I was already familiar with those sections, but it was still perfect for a Saturday morning – fitting into Leno’s nap time – and just right for being five months pregnant.

Trains to Semmering run every two hours, so I had time in the morning to take care of things at home and play a bit. I left the house at 9:57 AM, warming up with about 700 meters of jogging to the first track.

I already knew the Semmering–Wolfsbergkogel section, so this time I started from Wolfsbergkogel station. For the same reason, I skipped the Doppelreiter lookout, but I wholeheartedly recommend both to anyone visiting for the first time.

The Bahnwanderweg, or “railway hiking trail,” follows the famous Semmering Railway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998. Along the way, there are breathtaking views of the Semmering-Rax-Schneeberg region and the famous viaducts.

Starting from Wolfsbergkogel station, I passed the old Kurhaus Semmering – built in 1909, still exuding a special atmosphere – and headed towards the 20-Schilling viewpoint. From there, all the surrounding mountains and peaks are clearly visible: from left to right, the Rax (Heukuppe, Predigtstuhl, Jakobskogel), the Kreuzberg, the Schneeberg (Klosterwappen), the Krummbachstein, and the Gahns.

Although there’s a shorter route to Breitenstein, I chose the longer and more scenic path this time. After about 2.8 km, there’s a small refreshment point (Labestation), and along the way, you pass the Ghega Museum, showcasing the work of Carl von Ghega, the visionary behind the Semmering Railway. After the museum, I turned left and approached the Speckbacherhütte via Orthof.

Here comes the only noticeable ascent of the tour: about 400 meters uphill, but in return, you’re greeted with beautiful forest trails and tranquility.

At the Speckbacherhütte, I enjoyed a well-deserved coffee – the sun filtering through the tree canopies, it was quiet and peaceful. From there, it was just a jog down: through the Stojerhöhe to Payerbach, where I got caught in a brief rain shower. One last climb under the railway overpass, up the hill, and I was home just in time: Leno had just woken up.

Route: Wolfsbergkogel – 20-Schilling Viewpoint – Orthof – Speckbacherhütte – Stojerhöhe – Payerbach – Waldschlössl

Distance: 17.74 km

Elevation Gain: +650 m / –970 m

Continue reading “Two Heartbeats Along the Semmering Railway Trail”

From Breitenstein to the Speckbacherhütte – A Train-Assisted Family Hike for the Tiniest Steps

Saturday. According to Chris, it’s the best workday of the week – finally “no one from the office bothers him.” Since we have two kids, it’s been harder to set off on hikes alone with them: at least one needs to be carried, plus a backpack, a bit of logistics… and still, these are the outings that turn into our fondest memories. Especially when someone joins us.

All you need to know about our immediate neighbors is that L2 counted both of their names (or something close 😅) among his first ten words. My main contribution to the hike was knowing the route and having a plan – and ensuring good company (since both boys came along). Karin (“Tári”) and Grandpa Christian (“Sztán”) brought everything else we could need: a flashlight, snacks, fruit, good spirits – basically everything a child could wish for.

Our destination was the Speckbacherhütte, where Alexandra welcomed us once again with a fantastic lunch – including vegan and gluten-free options.

We started our hike in Breitenstein, where we arrived by train – which made the adventure more exciting for the kids and shortened the climb. There’s a small playground at the hut where we took a longer break before descending toward Reichenau and walking back to the Waldschlössl from there.

This hike can be easily modified, and the hut is also accessible by car. If the weather looks uncertain, it’s worth waiting at the hut for the next train and quickly hiking down to Breitenstein. From there, it’s a mostly dry journey home.

Route: Breitenstein – Speckbacherhütte – Stojerhöhe – Reichenau an der Rax – Waldschlössl

📍 9.75 km

⛰ +390 m / –640 m elevation difference

🕒 Took us about 3 hours at a relaxed pace

The best hikes aren’t about where you go – but who you go with.

Rufbus – 🚕 🛤️ A Mountain Holiday – Without a Car!

A trip to the mountains is always a true adventure – and the best part: you don’t even need a car! 🚌🚊

Payerbach-Reichenau train station is located just about 700 meters (1.2 km via paved road) from the Waldschlössl

Trains from Vienna arrive every hour, often even every half hour.

If you arrive by public transport, you’ll receive a 10% discount when booking through our website with the code Öffi.

And it gets even better:

If you’re staying in the Rax or Semmering region, you can use the Rufbus shuttle for free – a fantastic way to explore the area in a relaxed and eco-friendly way.

What is the Rufbus?

The Rufbus is a call-based shared taxi service that operates daily from 8:30 AM to 6:00 PM.

It conveniently takes you to hiking trails, cable cars, accommodations, or excursion destinations – all without needing your own car.

It serves around 130 stops in the following municipalities:

Reichenau an der Rax, Payerbach, Schwarzau am Gebirge, Gloggnitz, Schottwien, Semmering und Breitenstein.

The service is flexible, demand-oriented, and tailored to guests –


you call, and the bus comes to you!

How does it work?

1. Once you check in with us, let us know that you’d like to receive a MobilitätsCard+


(if you’re arriving by train, your booking confirmation is also valid – just tell the driver upon boarding that you’re entitled to a free ride).

2. Book your trip at least one hour in advance. For longer distances (over 10 km), it’s best to book 24 hours ahead!

3. Booking options:

• By phone: +43 660 900 88 22 (daily from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM)

• Or via the free Postbus Shuttle App

4. Show your MobilitätsCard+ when boarding.

Good to know:

• Trips up to 7.5 km from your accommodation are free of charge.

• For trips over 7.5 km, you pay only 50% of the standard fare.

Winter Shuttle ❄️⛷️

On weekends and during school holidays in winter, there’s an additional Winter Shuttle, which takes you from Semmering train station to the ski lifts at Hirschenkogel.

A small fee applies – it’s best to inquire when booking.

More info:

👉 www.semmering-rax.com/rufbus-fragen

We highly recommend it – comfortable, eco-friendly, and perfect for anyone who wants to explore the region at a relaxed pace. 🏞️💚

A sunset fading into the mist – a silent sunrise above the clouds 🌫🌅

We’ve recommended the hike to Jubiläumsaussicht many times – this week I tested it twice to see if you can rise above the fog. Both times, I was lucky. 🌫🌅

Fog is a rare visitor here in Reichenau – maybe because of all the wind. But growing up in Veszprém (Hungary), I still wait for those foggy November mornings with a childlike excitement, when the Rax disappears from view or the valley wraps itself in a soft mist by late afternoon.

It was 2021. Chris’s dad was visiting us, which kept Leno fully occupied – so I took the chance to head out for a quiet morning run.

I started on the path next to the Waldschlössl, turned right by the new bee hotel under construction, and cut through a short forest section instead of following the paved road. At Hochberger, the surrounding mountains began to emerge, though the hills were still cloaked in thick mist. From there, it was about 25 minutes of brisk walking to the lookout, where the first rays of sunlight gently broke through the fog – a true gift of the weather.

On the way back, I followed the yellow trail: a bit further up the blue path, then left onto the tractor road, and after about half a kilometer, I was back on familiar trails heading home to the Waldschlössl.

If you ever want to experience the peaceful silence of the fog and the slow awakening of the hills, we wholeheartedly recommend this route – short, varied, and full of surprises in every season. 🏞🍂

📍 Distance: 7-9 km

⛰ Elevation gain: approx. 450 m

⏱ Duration: 1 hour 15 minutes – 3 hours (depending on pace)

Route: Waldschlössl – Hochberger (blue trail) – Jubiläumsaussicht – yellow trail – back to Waldschlössl

Lentil soup on the summit, soft breathing in the carrier – a quick hike to Waldburgangerhütte

This time we did a brisk, scenic loop hike starting from Waldschlössl:


Jubiläumsaussicht – Waldburgangerhütte – Schedwiese, then back to the start.

The Waldburgangerhütte is open on weekends and public holidays from May 1 to June 30 and September 1 to October 26 – perfect for a well-earned rest and some refreshments at the top.

There are several ways to reach the hut from Waldschlössl – we followed the blue trail uphill. The Jubiläumsaussicht offers beautiful panoramic views. On the way back, we took the yellow-marked pathvia the Schedwiese, a wide meadow with scenic vistas. If the hiking trail feels too steep, you can switch to the forest road and take the serpentine route down.

📍 Distance: 9.3 km

⛰ Elevation gain: approx. 700 m

⏱ Duration: 2:20 hours

Route: Waldschlössl – Jubiläumsaussicht (blue trail) – Waldburgangerhütte – Schedwiese (yellow trail) – back to Waldschlössl

A great weekend outing – even with kids, if you adjust the pace to fit the youngest hikers.

First Snow in the Mountains ❄️🥾

When your annual family holiday lands at the end of November – and you spend it at home – at least you’re guaranteed not to miss the first snow.

We set out on a short but energetic loop hike, chasing fresh snow up in the hills.

Route:

Waldschlössl – Jubiläumsaussicht – Waldburgangerhütte – Schedkapelle Werning – Payerbach – Waldschlössl

Details:

📏 ~10 km

📈 +735 m elevation gain

⏱ 2:30 h, brisk pace with a child on Chris’s back

Great views, fresh air, a breezy ridge here and there – we ended tired and happy, with one well-rested kid in the carrier.

Windstorm, Sleet and a Castle Ruin – A Family Adventure, Waldschlössl-Style

This weekend brought back that “classic” Schneedörfl weather: windstorm, drizzly (and sometimes snowy) rain, and a steady 3°C – just perfect for a little family outing!

Continue reading “Windstorm, Sleet and a Castle Ruin – A Family Adventure, Waldschlössl-Style”

A Wild Kind of Comfort – A Carinthian-Style Hike to the Heukuppe

“At this point, only a helicopter or mountain rescue could get us down,” Chris muttered as we made our way up to the Heukuppe. The kids, snugly bundled in the hiking carrier and wrap, seemed to sense that this wasn’t the time for wild adventures. They just kept sleeping. And honestly, that was for the best.

We had planned a cozy family hike to the Heukuppe, the highest point of the Rax range. And well—cozy is a matter of perspective.

The Reisstalersteig quickly took us into alpine terrain. Chris murmured, “Hmm, I remember this differently…”—possibly because he’d filed away the short via ferrata under easy, back in his child-free, Carinthian hiking days. Technically, it’s not particularly difficult, but it does require sure-footedness, especially at the start, with a steep section and later, two ladders.

We were well-prepared for the weather—an oversized rain jacket for L2 and Z, a rain cover for the child carrier, warm layers—but the thickening fog and gusty wind still made things uncomfortable.

Leno, not yet three years old at the time (June 2023), climbed more than 300 vertical meters on his own—with great pride and determined little steps. It took us about 2 hours and 40 minutes to reach the Heukuppe with both kids.

We took a longer rest at the Karl-Ludwig-Haus—though not inside, since the hut was closed at the time. We sat in the winter room, ate our packed snacks, breastfed the littlest one, and recharged for the descent.

Update 2025: The Karl-Ludwig-Haus is now open again!

The way down via the Schlangenweg to the Waxriegelhaus was much more pleasant—solid footing, wind-sheltered, and the rain finally began to let up. That part took about 2 hours, then another 30 minutes back to the Preiner Gscheid.

Our route:

Preiner Gscheid – Reisstalersteig – Heukuppe – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Schlangenweg – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

→ approx. 10 km and 960 m of elevation gain/loss

The summary:

💨 Wind, 🌧️ Rain, 🌫️ Fog

🥾 a demanding trail

👣 a not-quite-three-year-old who earned his elevation gain with grit

The sense of comfort wasn’t in the views, but in the challenges we tackled together and the quiet breathing of the kids.

A family hike that was windy, foggy, and rainy – and all the more memorable because of it.

🛝 A place to play and relax: The “Kinderinsel” playground in Reichenau

If you’re out and about with kids, a walk through Reichenau is definitely worth it. Right by the Schwarza river, in the spa park, lies the lovingly designed playground called “Kinderinsel.”

Continue reading “🛝 A place to play and relax: The “Kinderinsel” playground in Reichenau”

Welcome, Buzzing Helpers – New Life in the Beehouse 🐝✨

Our beehouse has come to life again – quite literally! Not long ago, six bee colonies made the journey from Carinthia, lovingly provided by Christian’s dad. Christian and Leno brought them home in a daring night drive.

Five of those colonies are already strong and productive. The sixth one is our first breeding hive – and with space for up to 18 colonies in our beehouse, there’s plenty of room to grow.

We’re hopeful the bees will adjust to the breezier conditions here – they certainly weren’t used to this much wind back in Carinthia. Spring’s blossom season wasn’t ideal this year due to the weather, but we’ve already spotted the first tiny splashes of honey in the upper hive.

We’re optimistic that in the years to come, these bees will help pollinate our fruit trees – and who knows, maybe we’ll even get a taste of forest honey this season.

We can’t wait to see what this beekeeping year has in store – and when we’ll get to say the words we’re all waiting for: Time to spin some honey!

Princess Diaries?

“A cozy café. Friendly faces. Sunshine. Long conversations.” – It was autumn 2014, and during a break between two lectures at the Faculty of Law at ELTE in Budapest, Adri, Manu, and I found ourselves deep in a conversation about our futures.

Becoming lawyers felt like a distant idea to us. We each had our own plans – ideas that would eventually be shaped not only by our choices but also by the twists and turns of life.

Now, in February 2022, I’m sitting on the balcony of Waldschlössl in Schneedörfl. The sun is shining, and though there’s still snow on the Rax nearby, the first hints of spring are in the air. We might live in a little castle, but I never became a princess.

On May 19, 2021, we opened our little guesthouse in Reichenau an der Rax. Since then, this balcony has been a place for long talks with both old friends and new acquaintances, where we’ve breathed in the fresh mountain air and soaked in the peace after long hikes.

Downstairs, in the café area, our new coffee machine is already in place, waiting for the grand reopening. On this cool afternoon, my cup of coffee warms my fingers. One of this year’s projects is to renovate the inner courtyard and add a shaded terrace on the first floor. Since this will also involve reinforcing part of the café’s ceiling, we’ll need to finish this work before reopening. The tables are already partly done.

“Did I really have to become a lawyer? Was it worth earning that Austrian diploma?” I catch myself wondering from time to time. But, yes – every step, whether big or small, has brought me closer to a dream slowly coming true. To this moment – where I can truly savor this cup of coffee, surrounded by friends and familiar faces on this balcony.

Do we still have dreams? Countless.

Afternoon Hike to the Luckerte Wand 🌿☀️

We made the most of the sunny weather and set off on a short but stunning hike with our visitors! Just a 15-20 minute drive brought us to Orthof, where we started our journey to the Luckerte Wand and continued to the Gaiskirche, a charming little chapel tucked away in the forest.

Route: Orthof – Luckerte Wand – Gaiskirche – Orthof

Distance: 5.5 km

⏳ About 2 hours with kids

Elevation Gain: 277 m

The trail is varied but easy to navigate, and the views make every step worthwhile! If you’re looking for a relatively short yet impressive hike in the area, this one’s a perfect choice. ⛰️🌲

📍 Start: Google Maps

Preiner Gscheid – Gretchensteig – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Neue Seehütte – Göbl Kühn Steig – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

I always get a kick out of overhearing Hungarian hikers on the Rax. They tend to assume they’re the only ones around who understand their conversations:
“Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”


But let’s start from the beginning. I’ve owed you this trip report for about two months now, but with another round of Rax-loving guests arriving tomorrow, I finally found the motivation to write it up.

When Zsófi visited us in June, we knew we had to take her on a proper Rax adventure – you know, something for the memory bank. 😉

We set off on a sunny June morning (Zsófi and L) and a bit later in the day (Zita and L2), heading down to the train station in Payerbach. From there, we took a bus to the Preiner Gscheid, where our hike started about 30 minutes later. (And by the way, if you can decipher the bus timetable, you deserve a 10% discount on your next booking – here’s the challenge: Timetable.)

The lower sections of the Reisstalersteig and the Gretchensteig share the same path almost all the way to the Reisstalerhütte. Just before you reach the hut, a steep trail branches off to the right, offering fantastic views – at least until you’re swallowed up by the forest again. This is where Zsófi and L took a quick break, and I, driven by the motto “anything for a peaceful nap”, pushed on with L2.
This stretch eventually leads up to the Gretchensteig itself. Just before the actual via ferrata, there’s a rocky section, which, if you ask me, is trickier than the secured climbing passage that follows – but I’ll let everyone judge that for themselves.

“Wait, is that a kid up there?!”
“Hey, that’s a woman! Where’s her husband? Probably at home mowing the lawn.”
“No way she’s making it up there. We barely managed to come down. There’s got to be another way.”
“Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”

As the Hungarian group (decked out in full via ferrata gear) slowly picked their way down what they clearly considered “challenging” terrain, I had plenty of time to translate their colorful commentary for the Austrian hiker beside me – who, by the way, described the section as “no big deal”. Safe to say, we both got a good laugh out of it. 😉

And honestly, this whole encounter is a perfect example of how the same mountain trail can feel like a completely different challenge depending on who you are and how you approach it.




Once we reached the top, we skipped the usual break at the Karl-Ludwig-Haus and continued straight to the Neue Seehütte. About 30 minutes before reaching the hut, we had to pause for a quick hillside picnic (L2’s idea), before tackling a steeper descent that ended with a fantastic, gluten-free, vegan lentil stew.

The mountain had one last surprise for us – a sudden hailstorm (oh, June, you never fail to keep us on our toes) – before we met back up with Zsófi and L at the Waxriegelhaus. Together, we made it just in time for the last bus down.

Final stats: Roughly 12 km, around 900 meters of elevation gain and loss, and about 5 hours of hiking time with L2, plus three snack breaks. And as a little parting gift, we even caught a rainbow on our way back – a nice way to make up for the earlier hailstorm. 🌈

Preiner Gscheid – Gretchensteig – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Neue Seehütte – Göbl Kühn Steig – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Naturfreundehaus auf der Knofeleben und zurück

When We Don’t Feel Like Making Plans…

..we just head west.

At the second junction, we take the middle road toward Talhof, then the second forest path on the right – the one that leads up to the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben. No need for heavy packs today, since we know we’ll be up there in less than two hours, and we can skip cooking for the day.
Marco’s Naturfreundehaus is one of those rare places where both of us have plenty of options: almost everything on the menu is gluten-free, and the vegan selection keeps growing.
Today’s menu:

Pumpkin soup for L2, Ch, and Z
Potato goulash with beans for L1, L2, and Z
Blueberry strudel for Christian and L1
And, of course, a special oat milk latte for Z, as Marco likes to say, “Just for Mrs. Waldschlössl.” 😉

Both the hike up and down took about 1 hour 45 minutes each. Impressively, L1 managed the entire descent on his own, except for a 500-meter stretch. (On the way up, though, he mostly hitched a ride or took his time, so the boys – Ch and L1 – arrived about 20 minutes after us, but at least we had a table waiting by then.)

Route: Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – and back

Total: about 11.75 km, 730 meters of elevation gain.

Closed Until 2028 Waldschlössl – Jagdsteig – Mittagstein – Waldburgangerhütte – Eng – Wald

Somewhere Below Mittagstein

At some point below Mittagstein, I stopped taking photos. Right around then, I also made two important decisions: I need proper hiking boots, and I need trekking poles. Chris, just six weeks post-surgery for his double ligament tear, found the trail pleasant. I found it – how should I put it – rather adventurous.

Continue reading “Closed Until 2028 Waldschlössl – Jagdsteig – Mittagstein – Waldburgangerhütte – Eng – Wald”