Tag: #sustainable

Autumn Lights and Frosty Trails – A Girls’ Trip from Spital am Semmering over Kampalpe

While the boys were off on their own adventure, the four of us women enjoyed a “girls’ day” – discovering a brand-new route, even for me. We took the train to Spital am Semmering, then set off on foot and at a light jog along the Kampalpe ridge, following a long, varied trail all the way back to Payerbach and finally home to the Waldschlössl.

📍 Route: Spital am Semmering – Kampalpe – Wolfsbergkogel – Gasthaus Polleres – Payerbach – Waldschlössl

Distance: approx. 24.6 km

Elevation gain/loss: +1,200 m / -1,400 m

Net time: 3 hours 40 minutes of steady hiking and jogging

A true autumn gift – sunny skies, frosty paths, cool valleys, and crisp air. The trail was a real surprise – the peaceful and untamed Kampalpe ridge offered stunning views and a very runnable, scenic route. After Wolfsbergkogel, just as our energy began to dip, we reached Gasthaus Polleres at the perfect time. We stopped for a quick refreshment and were warmly welcomed – such hospitality is rare these days.

A truly special day – not just for the views or the route, but because of the great company, the calm of the mountains, and the magical autumn light. Days like these are a beautiful reminder of how many ways there are to recharge: through movement, meaningful conversation, and good companionship.

Beyond the Peaks of the Schneeberg

In Memory of Pascal Le Bail

One day, all that will remain are the shared experiences. The moments we lived together. Songs, scents, sounds. The memories.

May 27, 2008

My father was 54 years old when, while mowing the lawn, a sudden heart attack took him from us within seconds. One wrong move, an unexpected illness. And suddenly, everything changes.

July 20, 2024 – Saturday

Anne, a dear running friend from Vienna, wrote: “Tomorrow: Weichtalklamm, Schneeberg, Buchtelhütte and back – with Pascal.” A quick check-in with Christian – the boys were heading to St. Corona for a “guys’ day” – and I got the green light.

This tour had been on my bucket list for a long time. But I kept postponing it. On the one hand, I wasn’t sure whether it was a good idea to hike through the Weichtalklamm on my own (even though Christian put it this way: “Of course I know it – I used to RUN down that route.” 🤪)
On the other hand, such a tour requires at least half a day off. Today, everything aligned perfectly.

July 21, 2024 – Sunday

By 8:30 a.m. I was already at the bus stop in Payerbach. I was one of the last to board – the bus was full after that. Of course, Anne and Pascal were among the first. Shortly after nine, we arrived at the Weichtalhaus in the Höllental.

The gorge was breathtaking. The steep trail, the rocks, the ladders, the climbing – every step felt like it was pulling us upward with some invisible strength. It’s rare to go on a trail run or mountain hike with three people where everything just flows: no explanations, no waiting – like a well-practiced team. I have never met a more cautious and thoughtful man in the mountains than Pascal. He knew and respected the area like very few others.

By 10:30 a.m. we reached the Kienthalerhütte, and shortly before noon we stood together at the summit of the Klosterwappen – 2,076 meters – the highest point of the Schneeberg. From there we continued quickly to the Baumgartner hut – Anne and Pascal were rewarded with a well-earned Buchtel, and I got a large elderflower juice. Just a few minutes later, we jogged on – through the Lackabodengraben, across the Eng, along the Mariensteig, and finally down to the Waldschlössl.

There are tours that are about more than just running. They are moments that etch themselves deep into memory. This day was one of them.

—

Route:

Weichtalhaus – Weichtalklamm – Kienthalerhütte – Klosterwappen – Schutzhütte Baumgartner – Lackabodengraben – Eng – Mariensteig – Waldschlössl

Distance: approx. 21.7 km

Elevation gain/loss: +1,585 m / –1,558 m

Duration: trail running, 5 hours 45 minutes total, including two short breaks

—

End of August 2024

About a month later, the news arrived:

“Hohe Wand. 54-year-old man fatally injured while climbing.”

July 21, 2024

On the trail between the Kienthalerhütte and the Klosterwappen, there is a cross. We arrived there at exactly 11:00 a.m.
We paused for a moment, taking in the view. Pascal could name every peak around us. He knew the mountains. A strange feeling came over me as we read the inscription on the cross:

“Stop and read:

What you are now, I once was.

What I am now, you shall one day be,

And you too will be covered by the same earth…”

No grand words were needed. Only the steps. The rocks. The July sunshine. The silence. The moments that remain. And the gratitude for the time shared.

November Hike to the Krummbachstein – or: A Sweet Burden 🥾🤰🍁

What’s great about hikes around the Waldschlössl is that even familiar destinations can take on a whole new character when approached from a different direction. This time, our goal was once again the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – but we “attacked” it from a different side.

I’m not sure how well the people who recommend staying active during pregnancy know Christian 😄 – but one thing’s for sure: it’s never boring with him. This hike started out as a gentle walk (we weren’t going all the way up the Rax summit 🏔️).

We set off from Waldschlössl, as usual, and headed toward the Lackabodengraben. The path climbs gradually and pleasantly. Once at the top, instead of turning left toward Knofeleben, we continued straight on the red-yellow-red trail up to the Krummbachstein summit. Although this route is longer (around 4 km instead of the steeper 2 km), it’s much gentler – and we even saw a little snow ❄️ up there.

The sunshine ☀️ stayed with us all day, and – a rare exception – there was no strong wind at the summit. We had the chance to fully enjoy the colors and calm of autumn 🍂🍃.

That day marked the start of my seventh month of pregnancy 🤰, and, as it turned out, it was my last long hike with L2 in my belly. (After that, we only made it as far as Knofeleben.)

We descended via the steeper trail heading toward Knofeleben. Honestly, I wouldn’t recommend this route while pregnant 😅 – but with a break at the house (🍲🍲🍲 and a kid’s paradise: toy chainsaw, train 🚂, tiny cars 🚗, little playground), it turned out quite nice.

From there, we followed the tractor path down toward Eng – an easy and gentle track that even made Leno want to run 🏃. And he did! He ran the first 4 km with us – and even waited for me sometimes, which I deeply appreciated ❤️.

⸻

📍 Route:


Waldschlössl – Lackabodengraben – Krummbachstein – Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – Eng – Mariensteig – Waldschlössl

📏 Distance: 19 km

⛰️ Elevation gain: 1100 m

⏱️ Time: Uphill about 4 hours, downhill (with breaks) about 2 hours

Video: Click here

Sonnwendstein with Kids and Friends – A Waldschlössl-Style Warm-Up Before the Race Day

On what was just another working Saturday – at least according to Christian, who was busy building the greenhouse – Z and the two Ls set off to make the most of the sunshine, our Lower Austria Card, and most of all, the great company of our friends from Vienna

This day was all about tapering – with a trail running race ahead for L1 and me the next day, this hike was more of a gentle warm-up and a laid-back day (Spoiler: It wasn’t).

Our logistics worked like a charm: we rolled down to the train station by bike, had our snack on the train, L2 took a short but efficient nap, and soon we arrived in Semmering. From there, we headed towards the cable car and met up with our friends from Vienna: kids company ✅, hiking motivation ✅.

A few minutes later, the gondola took us up to Hirschenkogel – a familiar place for the kids from last year, with its awesome playground, water fun, marble run, climbing frames, and pre-lunch picnic. From there, we continued on the panorama trail towards Sonnwendstein. It’s a bit longer and steeper than the forest route, but the views are stunning – and from the big cross near the summit, you get almost the same breathtaking vista as from the actual peak. Since I had sworn just three weeks earlier not to climb that mountain again for a while (More), this was a great alternative. Everyone agreed: one summit a day is plenty 😅.

All four kids hiked with enthusiasm. We carried the little ones now and then, while the two older boys managed to walk most of it on their own. When L1 got tired of the uphill, we did what Boribon (a Hungarian bear from a children’s book) would do after falling and bumping his knee: he carried the backpack, I carried him. Or in his words:

“Mum, I’m in the front, because L2 is in the back!”

At Pollereshütte, they had tasty local dishes, plus a gluten-free and vegan lentil stew – highly recommended. After a short rest, we headed back down via the forest trail.

Finally, we took the gondola down again – and thanks to our friends, we even got a ride back to the Semmering train station. From there, it was a smooth trip home.

⸻

Route: Semmering Train Station – Passhöhe – Cable Car – Hirschenkogel – Sonnwendstein (Pollereshütte) – Hirschenkogel – Cable Car – Semmering Train Station

Hiking Distance:

• From the train station to the cable car base: about 1.8 km, 100 meters elevation gain. L1 and I did it in 20 minutes at a brisk pace.

• Hirschenkogel–Pollereshütte–Hirschenkogel: 7.8 km with 336 meters elevation gain. With four kids under five, it took us 3 hours and 15 minutes.

Two Heartbeats Along the Semmering Railway Trail

Since last summer, this little half-marathon had been on my mind, previously only dreamed up on a map. Thanks to Nana, I finally made it happen. I trimmed a few kilometers, as I was already familiar with those sections, but it was still perfect for a Saturday morning – fitting into Leno’s nap time – and just right for being five months pregnant.

Trains to Semmering run every two hours, so I had time in the morning to take care of things at home and play a bit. I left the house at 9:57 AM, warming up with about 700 meters of jogging to the first track.

I already knew the Semmering–Wolfsbergkogel section, so this time I started from Wolfsbergkogel station. For the same reason, I skipped the Doppelreiter lookout, but I wholeheartedly recommend both to anyone visiting for the first time.

⸻

The Bahnwanderweg, or “railway hiking trail,” follows the famous Semmering Railway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998. Along the way, there are breathtaking views of the Semmering-Rax-Schneeberg region and the famous viaducts.

Starting from Wolfsbergkogel station, I passed the old Kurhaus Semmering – built in 1909, still exuding a special atmosphere – and headed towards the 20-Schilling viewpoint. From there, all the surrounding mountains and peaks are clearly visible: from left to right, the Rax (Heukuppe, Predigtstuhl, Jakobskogel), the Kreuzberg, the Schneeberg (Klosterwappen), the Krummbachstein, and the Gahns.

Although there’s a shorter route to Breitenstein, I chose the longer and more scenic path this time. After about 2.8 km, there’s a small refreshment point (Labestation), and along the way, you pass the Ghega Museum, showcasing the work of Carl von Ghega, the visionary behind the Semmering Railway. After the museum, I turned left and approached the Speckbacherhütte via Orthof.

Here comes the only noticeable ascent of the tour: about 400 meters uphill, but in return, you’re greeted with beautiful forest trails and tranquility.

At the Speckbacherhütte, I enjoyed a well-deserved coffee – the sun filtering through the tree canopies, it was quiet and peaceful. From there, it was just a jog down: through the Stojerhöhe to Payerbach, where I got caught in a brief rain shower. One last climb under the railway overpass, up the hill, and I was home just in time: Leno had just woken up.

Route: Wolfsbergkogel – 20-Schilling Viewpoint – Orthof – Speckbacherhütte – Stojerhöhe – Payerbach – Waldschlössl

Distance: 17.74 km

Elevation Gain: +650 m / –970 m

Continue reading “Two Heartbeats Along the Semmering Railway Trail”

From Breitenstein to the Speckbacherhütte – A Train-Assisted Family Hike for the Tiniest Steps

Saturday. According to Chris, it’s the best workday of the week – finally “no one from the office bothers him.” Since we have two kids, it’s been harder to set off on hikes alone with them: at least one needs to be carried, plus a backpack, a bit of logistics… and still, these are the outings that turn into our fondest memories. Especially when someone joins us.

All you need to know about our immediate neighbors is that L2 counted both of their names (or something close 😅) among his first ten words. My main contribution to the hike was knowing the route and having a plan – and ensuring good company (since both boys came along). Karin (“Tári”) and Grandpa Christian (“Sztán”) brought everything else we could need: a flashlight, snacks, fruit, good spirits – basically everything a child could wish for.

Our destination was the Speckbacherhütte, where Alexandra welcomed us once again with a fantastic lunch – including vegan and gluten-free options.

We started our hike in Breitenstein, where we arrived by train – which made the adventure more exciting for the kids and shortened the climb. There’s a small playground at the hut where we took a longer break before descending toward Reichenau and walking back to the Waldschlössl from there.

This hike can be easily modified, and the hut is also accessible by car. If the weather looks uncertain, it’s worth waiting at the hut for the next train and quickly hiking down to Breitenstein. From there, it’s a mostly dry journey home.

Route: Breitenstein – Speckbacherhütte – Stojerhöhe – Reichenau an der Rax – Waldschlössl

📍 9.75 km

⛰ +390 m / –640 m elevation difference

🕒 Took us about 3 hours at a relaxed pace

The best hikes aren’t about where you go – but who you go with.

Rufbus – 🚕 🛤️ A Mountain Holiday – Without a Car!

A trip to the mountains is always a true adventure – and the best part: you don’t even need a car! 🚌🚊

Payerbach-Reichenau train station is located just about 700 meters (1.2 km via paved road) from the Waldschlössl. 

Trains from Vienna arrive every hour, often even every half hour.

If you arrive by public transport, you’ll receive a 10% discount when booking through our website with the code Öffi.

And it gets even better:

If you’re staying in the Rax or Semmering region, you can use the Rufbus shuttle for free – a fantastic way to explore the area in a relaxed and eco-friendly way.

⸻

What is the Rufbus?

The Rufbus is a call-based shared taxi service that operates daily from 8:30 AM to 6:00 PM.

It conveniently takes you to hiking trails, cable cars, accommodations, or excursion destinations – all without needing your own car.

It serves around 130 stops in the following municipalities:

Reichenau an der Rax, Payerbach, Schwarzau am Gebirge, Gloggnitz, Schottwien, Semmering und Breitenstein.

The service is flexible, demand-oriented, and tailored to guests –


you call, and the bus comes to you!

⸻

How does it work?

1. Once you check in with us, let us know that you’d like to receive a MobilitätsCard+


(if you’re arriving by train, your booking confirmation is also valid – just tell the driver upon boarding that you’re entitled to a free ride).

2. Book your trip at least one hour in advance. For longer distances (over 10 km), it’s best to book 24 hours ahead!

3. Booking options:

• By phone: +43 660 900 88 22 (daily from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM)

• Or via the free Postbus Shuttle App

4. Show your MobilitätsCard+ when boarding.

⸻

Good to know:

• Trips up to 7.5 km from your accommodation are free of charge.

• For trips over 7.5 km, you pay only 50% of the standard fare.

⸻

Winter Shuttle ❄️⛷️

On weekends and during school holidays in winter, there’s an additional Winter Shuttle, which takes you from Semmering train station to the ski lifts at Hirschenkogel.

A small fee applies – it’s best to inquire when booking.

More info:

👉 www.semmering-rax.com/rufbus-fragen

⸻

We highly recommend it – comfortable, eco-friendly, and perfect for anyone who wants to explore the region at a relaxed pace. 🏞️💚

Schneealpe – Spring instead of winter, sunshine instead of wind

The weather forecast for today didn’t sound inviting: 0 to 6°C and strong winds were predicted for the Schneealpe. So we packed plenty of warm clothing and prepared for wintry conditions – only to be welcomed by spring-like weather, sunshine, and breathtaking views in every direction.

Early in the morning, we took the train to Mürzzuschlag. From there, Katja’s “taxi” brought us to Altenberg an der Rax, where our tour began. The trail led us through the Almgraben up to Windberg, with a break at the Michlbauerhütte. Then we continued through the Lohmgraben to the Kohlebnerstand and finally returned to Altenberg.

Route: Altenberg an der Rax – Almgraben – Windberg – Michlbauerhütte – Lohmgraben – Kohlebnerstand – Altenberg an der Rax

🥾 Distance: 22.15 km

⛰️ Elevation gain: 1,354 m

⏱️ Time: approx. 4:00 h trail run + 1:00 h total break time

The tour had it all: wide-open views, a sunny summit break, a surprise climbing section, a social media photo course at the summit cross, a shoe test, deep conversations, and even more laughter. And in between, a few nuggets of wisdom from 20 to 30 years of marriage – shared by seasoned mountain partners, of course. We are always reminded how lucky we are to experience such adventures together.

To wrap up, we enjoyed a coffee on the terrace at the Waldschlössl – in the sunshine, as clouds slowly gathered and the wind picked up. A fitting end to a thoroughly wonderful tour.

☕ A “Man-Sunday” as a Father’s Day Gift – or: Coffee with a View

How could one spend Father’s Day in a better way than alone with one’s two sons? 😅 This morning, Zita heroically sacrificed herself and had to go running all alone – so that the three men could finally enjoy a peaceful Sunday together. 🙌🏻

Of course, the boys made sure everyone was up early – which meant Zita could start her run in good time. From Waldschlössl to Kaiserbrunn, it’s 8.5 km. The path from Hirschwang follows the shady Wiener Wasserleitungsweg, winding along the Schwarza River through the Höllental gorge. If there’s such a thing as a perfect summer trail for running or hiking, this is it: shade, babbling water, little bridges, fresh air – what more could you ask for?

Well, maybe a coffee. But for that, the mountain had to be conquered first. After Kaiserbrunn, the path gets steeper and climbs up toward the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben, with stunning views of the Rax and Schneeberg. On the terrace, a well-earned, life-saving espresso was finally waiting for me. ☕💚

The return route led back along familiar paths through the Eng, and after about an hour I was back at the Waldschlössl. What followed was some well-deserved rest with the boys – or at least something that kind of qualifies as rest when you’re with two small children. 😅

⸻

📍 Route: Waldschlössl – Hirschwang – Wasserleitungsweg – Kaiserbrunn – Miesleitensteig – Knofeleben – Mitterberggraben – Eng – Mariensteig – Waldschlössl

📏 Distance: approx. 20 km

⛰️ Elevation gain: 920 m

🕒 Duration: approx. 3h 30min (let’s call it trail running – or at least speed hiking, including a coffee break)

Hike to the Ottohaus – four seasons in one day

On this mild morning at the end of October, we woke up to snowfall and stormy winds – so we tried to delay our start. Just a few hours later, we were climbing uphill in bright sunshine – a completely surreal experience. The mountains are unpredictable, but that’s exactly what makes them magical.

By the time we reached the top, it was clear to both of us: we’ll only return here once the boys can hike on their own.

(Update May 2025 – Zita: Of course I’m still carrying L2 on my back.)

We met our friends at the Ottohaus – they had taken the cable car with their three kids, while we started from Hirschwang and followed the Törlweg. Not long after we arrived, Christian headed straight back: he ran down into the valley alone. I walked with the boys to the cable car station, and we descended together – and arrived at the base station at exactly the same time. We spent a total of four hours on the mountain.

📍 Distance: approx. 10 km

⛰ Elevation gain: approx. 1,150 m

⏱ Duration: 4 hours (gross)

Route: Hirschwang – Törlweg – Ottohaus – Praterstern – Rax cable car station

The most memorable hikes rarely go as planned – and that’s exactly what makes them unforgettable.

Lentil soup on the summit, soft breathing in the carrier – a quick hike to Waldburgangerhütte

This time we did a brisk, scenic loop hike starting from Waldschlössl:


Jubiläumsaussicht – Waldburgangerhütte – Schedwiese, then back to the start.

The Waldburgangerhütte is open on weekends and public holidays from May 1 to June 30 and September 1 to October 26 – perfect for a well-earned rest and some refreshments at the top.

There are several ways to reach the hut from Waldschlössl – we followed the blue trail uphill. The Jubiläumsaussicht offers beautiful panoramic views. On the way back, we took the yellow-marked pathvia the Schedwiese, a wide meadow with scenic vistas. If the hiking trail feels too steep, you can switch to the forest road and take the serpentine route down.

📍 Distance: 9.3 km

⛰ Elevation gain: approx. 700 m

⏱ Duration: 2:20 hours

Route: Waldschlössl – Jubiläumsaussicht (blue trail) – Waldburgangerhütte – Schedwiese (yellow trail) – back to Waldschlössl

A great weekend outing – even with kids, if you adjust the pace to fit the youngest hikers.

First Snow in the Mountains ❄️🥾

When your annual family holiday lands at the end of November – and you spend it at home – at least you’re guaranteed not to miss the first snow.

We set out on a short but energetic loop hike, chasing fresh snow up in the hills.

Route:

Waldschlössl – Jubiläumsaussicht – Waldburgangerhütte – Schedkapelle – Werning – Payerbach – Waldschlössl

Details:

📏 ~10 km

📈 +735 m elevation gain

⏱ 2:30 h, brisk pace with a child on Chris’s back

Great views, fresh air, a breezy ridge here and there – we ended tired and happy, with one well-rested kid in the carrier.

🏔 A Not-So-Everyday Schneeberg Hike with a Three-Month-Old Baby

How do you plan a hiking day with a baby carrier and as little gear as possible?

Simple: First, you write a list of the essentials. Then you head out – and leave the list at home. From that point on, all you really need is one thing: improvisation. (Sometimes in very literal ways – like sliding down snow. Without a sled. But we’ll get to that later.)

⸻

At 8:05 a.m., just 200 meters from the Waldschlössl, our neighbor Regina asked me:

– “Are you heading up to Marco today?”

And I honestly didn’t even know yet if we’d make it to the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben.

The route? A Sunday classic: through the Eng, then instead of taking the Mitterberggraben turnoff, we went right toward the Lackabodengraben and continued on the trail toward Krummbachstein.


At the Krummbachsattel, the question arose:

➡️ Should we keep going toward the Schneeberg?

Or

☀️ Stay near Knofeleben, take it easy and enjoy a proper break?

Well:

👶 The baby was asleep.

🌞 The sun was shining.

🌡 The temperature was perfect.

🕙 And it was only 10:00 a.m.

So, we kept going.

⸻

At the ruins of Baumgartnerhaus (10:45), L2 woke up. We found a wind-sheltered spot with some shade and had a quick snack break (🤱🏼).

15 minutes later: another stop – L2 was still not fully on board (🤱🏼). Since I wasn’t sure if the last cogwheel train really left at 3:15 p.m., there wasn’t much room for hesitation. We had to move.

The next stretch was steep and rocky – L2 was not impressed. But after five minutes of mild protest, he fell back asleep. By exactly 12:00 noon, we made it to the top – and I was honestly just relieved we’d made it past that section.

What followed was just a pleasant walk to the Klosterwappen (1:05 p.m.). Truly pleasant. Until we hit a small patch of snow (or rather, ice) just below the Fischerhütte. L2 woke up again – and made it very clear he would prefer to keep sleeping. With curious hikers watching, a slippery path ahead, and the decision came quickly: Sit down in the snow, grab the rope – and slide. Well, I slid. On my butt. L2 screamed. Two minutes later: back asleep. Win.

⸻

All the planned stops (Damböckhaus, Fischerhütte, and Damböckhaus again) were skipped – L2 was sleeping too deeply. And just like that, we found ourselves at the final station of the Schneebergbahn at 2:05 p.m.

⸻

On the train, no one guessed that we hadn’t just hiked down from the Klosterwappen –but had walked the whole way from Reichenau, with baby carrier and all. By 3:00 p.m., we were already waiting in Puchberg for the replacement bus.

I’d love to say that the last walk from Payerbach back to the Waldschlössl was the perfect end to the day – but honestly, those last 90 vertical meters felt more like crawling and silent mantras than hiking, especially three months postpartum. L2? Blissfully napping again.

⸻

📍 Route:

Waldschlössl – Eng – Lackabodengraben – Krummbachsattel – Klosterwappen – Fischerhütte – Damböckhaus – Hochschneeberg mountain station

📏 16.7 km

📈 1,650 m ascent

📉 400 m descent

🕒 6 hours (including two short breaks)

👶 1 baby in the front carrier, backpack in the back

🎒 0 sled

😅 1 slide on the butt

❤️ 100% memories

Semi-optimal is still a win – Sonnwendstein in reverse, coffee forward

A new favorite phrase has quietly made its way into our vocabulary: semi-optimal. We learned it from Anne. And honestly, few things have ever described a trail run quite so perfectly.

The plan: our classic Sonnwendstein route – but backwards. Starting from Waldschlössl, passing through Payerbach, Küb, Schottwien, and Maria Schutz, then climbing the Gebirgsjägersteig, crossing the Sonnwendstein, and finally descending into Semmering. And maybe – just maybe – we thought about running all the way home from there. Theoretically.

Motivation? On holiday today. Probably hanging out somewhere on the Rax. Or at Katja’s. Each of us had at least one excellent excuse why we didn’t really have to do this today. And as for running back from Semmering – well, we happily skipped that part.

In reality, it all ended in the Kaffeehalle. Which honestly was no bad place to end up: excellent coffee, panoramic views, and that comforting feeling of having made one good decision – namely, taking the train. For that cappuccino, we could have climbed another 400 vertical meters. But we didn’t.


Semi-optimal – but with (vegan) milk foam.

The Sonnwendstein? Conquered again – and once again we decided to avoid it for a while. That trail stretches like chewing gum, and by the seventh tree root you start thinking: if we’re climbing this much, why not just head straight to the Rax? 😅

⸻

And if someone asks how it went?

Semi-optimal – but beautiful.

📍 Route: Waldschlössl – Payerbach – Küb – Schottwien – Maria Schutz – Gebirgsjägersteig – Sonnwendstein – Semmering

📏 Distance: 22.4 km

⏱️ Duration: around 4 hours (for the most part, it still qualified as trail running)

⛰️ Elevation: +1300 m, -940 m

In summary:

No run back home, but a great coffee.
No motivation, but plenty of willpower.
No more Sonnwendstein… at least not until next month. 😋

For a day we weren’t really feeling it, it turned out just fine.


Semi-optimal is still a win.

Windstorm, Sleet and a Castle Ruin – A Family Adventure, Waldschlössl-Style

This weekend brought back that “classic” Schneedörfl weather: windstorm, drizzly (and sometimes snowy) rain, and a steady 3°C – just perfect for a little family outing!

Continue reading “Windstorm, Sleet and a Castle Ruin – A Family Adventure, Waldschlössl-Style”

A Wild Kind of Comfort – A Carinthian-Style Hike to the Heukuppe

“At this point, only a helicopter or mountain rescue could get us down,” Chris muttered as we made our way up to the Heukuppe. The kids, snugly bundled in the hiking carrier and wrap, seemed to sense that this wasn’t the time for wild adventures. They just kept sleeping. And honestly, that was for the best.

We had planned a cozy family hike to the Heukuppe, the highest point of the Rax range. And well—cozy is a matter of perspective.

The Reisstalersteig quickly took us into alpine terrain. Chris murmured, “Hmm, I remember this differently…”—possibly because he’d filed away the short via ferrata under easy, back in his child-free, Carinthian hiking days. Technically, it’s not particularly difficult, but it does require sure-footedness, especially at the start, with a steep section and later, two ladders.

We were well-prepared for the weather—an oversized rain jacket for L2 and Z, a rain cover for the child carrier, warm layers—but the thickening fog and gusty wind still made things uncomfortable.

Leno, not yet three years old at the time (June 2023), climbed more than 300 vertical meters on his own—with great pride and determined little steps. It took us about 2 hours and 40 minutes to reach the Heukuppe with both kids.

We took a longer rest at the Karl-Ludwig-Haus—though not inside, since the hut was closed at the time. We sat in the winter room, ate our packed snacks, breastfed the littlest one, and recharged for the descent.

→ Update 2025: The Karl-Ludwig-Haus is now open again!

The way down via the Schlangenweg to the Waxriegelhaus was much more pleasant—solid footing, wind-sheltered, and the rain finally began to let up. That part took about 2 hours, then another 30 minutes back to the Preiner Gscheid.

⸻

Our route:

Preiner Gscheid – Reisstalersteig – Heukuppe – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Schlangenweg – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

→ approx. 10 km and 960 m of elevation gain/loss

⸻

The summary:

💨 Wind, 🌧️ Rain, 🌫️ Fog

🥾 a demanding trail

👣 a not-quite-three-year-old who earned his elevation gain with grit

The sense of comfort wasn’t in the views, but in the challenges we tackled together and the quiet breathing of the kids.

A family hike that was windy, foggy, and rainy – and all the more memorable because of it.

🛝 A place to play and relax: The “Kinderinsel” playground in Reichenau

If you’re out and about with kids, a walk through Reichenau is definitely worth it. Right by the Schwarza river, in the spa park, lies the lovingly designed playground called “Kinderinsel.”

Continue reading “🛝 A place to play and relax: The “Kinderinsel” playground in Reichenau”

What Might Be on the Other Side of the Tunnel? – A Little Afternoon Exploration

Some days go exactly as planned. Others… don’t. Today, we wanted to head to Prigglitz, but with some luggage to sort, a changeover in the guesthouse, and a well-deserved load of laundry, the day got away from us. So we started later than expected and changed our destination: Grillenberg it was – and we’re so glad we did!

Continue reading “What Might Be on the Other Side of the Tunnel? – A Little Afternoon Exploration”

Welcome, Buzzing Helpers – New Life in the Beehouse 🐝✨

Our beehouse has come to life again – quite literally! Not long ago, six bee colonies made the journey from Carinthia, lovingly provided by Christian’s dad. Christian and Leno brought them home in a daring night drive.

Five of those colonies are already strong and productive. The sixth one is our first breeding hive – and with space for up to 18 colonies in our beehouse, there’s plenty of room to grow.

We’re hopeful the bees will adjust to the breezier conditions here – they certainly weren’t used to this much wind back in Carinthia. Spring’s blossom season wasn’t ideal this year due to the weather, but we’ve already spotted the first tiny splashes of honey in the upper hive.

We’re optimistic that in the years to come, these bees will help pollinate our fruit trees – and who knows, maybe we’ll even get a taste of forest honey this season.

We can’t wait to see what this beekeeping year has in store – and when we’ll get to say the words we’re all waiting for: “Time to spin some honey!”

Princess Diaries?

“A cozy café. Friendly faces. Sunshine. Long conversations.” – It was autumn 2014, and during a break between two lectures at the Faculty of Law at ELTE in Budapest, Adri, Manu, and I found ourselves deep in a conversation about our futures.

Becoming lawyers felt like a distant idea to us. We each had our own plans – ideas that would eventually be shaped not only by our choices but also by the twists and turns of life.

Now, in February 2022, I’m sitting on the balcony of Waldschlössl in Schneedörfl. The sun is shining, and though there’s still snow on the Rax nearby, the first hints of spring are in the air. We might live in a little castle, but I never became a princess.

On May 19, 2021, we opened our little guesthouse in Reichenau an der Rax. Since then, this balcony has been a place for long talks with both old friends and new acquaintances, where we’ve breathed in the fresh mountain air and soaked in the peace after long hikes.

Downstairs, in the café area, our new coffee machine is already in place, waiting for the grand reopening. On this cool afternoon, my cup of coffee warms my fingers. One of this year’s projects is to renovate the inner courtyard and add a shaded terrace on the first floor. Since this will also involve reinforcing part of the café’s ceiling, we’ll need to finish this work before reopening. The tables are already partly done.

“Did I really have to become a lawyer? Was it worth earning that Austrian diploma?” I catch myself wondering from time to time. But, yes – every step, whether big or small, has brought me closer to a dream slowly coming true. To this moment – where I can truly savor this cup of coffee, surrounded by friends and familiar faces on this balcony.

Do we still have dreams? Countless.

Afternoon Hike to the Luckerte Wand 🌿☀️

We made the most of the sunny weather and set off on a short but stunning hike with our visitors! Just a 15-20 minute drive brought us to Orthof, where we started our journey to the Luckerte Wand and continued to the Gaiskirche, a charming little chapel tucked away in the forest.

Route: Orthof – Luckerte Wand – Gaiskirche – Orthof

Distance: 5.5 km

⏳ About 2 hours with kids

Elevation Gain: 277 m

The trail is varied but easy to navigate, and the views make every step worthwhile! If you’re looking for a relatively short yet impressive hike in the area, this one’s a perfect choice. ⛰️🌲

📍 Start: Google Maps

Talhof Loop – Perfect for a Short Run or a Relaxed Walk

Perfect for anyone training for the Vienna Business Run (😋) or just looking for a relaxed, relatively flat 4.2 km route nearby – or even a peaceful nature walk. The Talhof Loop is a great choice in (almost) any weather and can even be tackled with a sturdy, off-road stroller.

Route: Waldschlössl – Scheiterplatz – Talhof – Talhofstraße – Rudolfvilla – Schneedörflstraße – Waldschlössl

Distance: 4.2 km

⏳ Depending on who you’re with, we’ve finished it in anything from 30 minutes to 2 hours

Elevation gain: 120 m

Morning Coffee with a View – Kicking Off the Weekend on the Trail

“Good morning. Just a heads-up: we’ve got no water in the entire house this morning. Haven’t had my coffee yet 🤪” – that’s how Anne’s day started.

For us, the mission was clear: Speckbacherhütte, as quickly as possible! Just after 9 a.m., we finally had that much-needed first coffee in hand – and the world felt right again.

Four ladies, fresh mountain air, a beautifully sunny day, and a trail that took us from the Waldschlössl, over the Stojerhöhe, up to the Speckbacherhütte, and then back down through Mayerhöfen and Reichenau. It was still cool and crisp in the valley, but warm and sunny at the top – perfect for taking deep breaths and stretching the legs.

On the final climb, we picked up the pace a bit, making it (well, almost) back home by 10:30 a.m., just in time to take over the kids, so Christian could start his workday.

A trailrun with 14 kilometers and 740 meters of elevation in 2 hours and 20 minutes – a perfect start to the weekend.

Route: Waldschlössl – Payerbachgraben – Stojerhöhe – Speckbacherhütte – Mayerhöfen – Reichenau – Waldschlössl 

Elevation Instead of Flowers – A Name Day on the Trail

“A 30 km loop with 1,500 meters of elevation gain, ideally with three 500-meter climbs – can you be our guide for that?” Egon asked me a few weeks ago.

“Sure,” I said. “We’ll just squeeze in a couple of coffee breaks—then you’ll get your three climbs.”

“Let’s keep it focused,” Egon added. “The goal is to finish in under six hours.”

Challenge accepted.

That was the simple plan. It was surprisingly crisp when I stood in front of the Waldschlössl at 7:15 a.m.—but the slight tingle in my legs told me: today would be something special.

By 8:30, we were already at the top of the first climb (700 m gain). Egon grinned, clearly pleased. I took a five-minute break—almost mandatory according to my training plan. That morning, the apple juice with hot water at the Knofeleben mountain hut tasted like a holiday drink. Cheers to that!

Since moving to Austria, I sometimes forget that in Hungary, we celebrate name days. But honestly—what better way to spend it than out on the trails with someone like Egon? A trail expert, running buddy, and all-around motivator.

He was the one who introduced me to trail running—before we even moved to Reichenau—after I got into ultrarunning through him. And today, he showed me something new again: how to use trail poles properly (thanks, Anne!) and how to run downhill efficiently.

Single trails? Bring it on!

Our route:

Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Knofeleben – Krummbachstein – Emmysteig – Waxriegel – Baumgartner – Bodenwiese – Waldburgangerhütte – Waldschlössl.

By the end, my watch showed 29.7 km and 1,770 meters of elevation gain in 5:45, including breaks—featuring (more or less) three solid, rewarding climbs.

A name day morning filled with views, apple juice, trail running, two summit crosses, lots of laughs, new skills—and one (or rather two) big smiles. And the sense of being exactly where I’m meant to be.

Spring Hike to the Waxriegelhaus – Fresh Air, Stunning Views, and Tired Little Legs

Last week, we took advantage of the beautiful spring weather and headed to the Waxriegelhaus. A special thanks to our wonderful neighbor, who not only kept us company but also made Leno’s midday nap possible – carrying a child on your back is no small feat! ❤️

We started at the Preiner Gscheid, sitting at 1,070 meters, just a 20-minute drive from our place, though it’s also accessible by bus from spring to autumn. From here, you have a few options for reaching the Waxriegelhaus:
• The longer, more gradual tractor path: about 3.5 km one way, with 300 to 350 meters of elevation gain – perfect for a steady hike.
• The steeper, shorter route: around 1.5 km one way, with the same elevation gain, for those who like a bit of a challenge.

Despite the usual snow at this altitude, we were lucky to enjoy bright sunshine, breathtaking views over a sea of fog, and a fantastic lentil stew at the Waxriegelhaus as a reward.

We took about 1.5 hours for the 3.8 km round trip, including a short nap break for Leno on the way up. On the way down, we had to pick up the pace to keep up with our little “express train,” who decided to tackle the whole descent on foot.

It’s an ideal short hike for families, and if there’s enough snow, it’s even perfect for a sled ride back down. On clear days, you can also continue up to the Rax peaks for even more spectacular views.

Preiner Gscheid – Gretchensteig – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Neue Seehütte – Göbl Kühn Steig – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

I always get a kick out of overhearing Hungarian hikers on the Rax. They tend to assume they’re the only ones around who understand their conversations:
“Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”


But let’s start from the beginning. I’ve owed you this trip report for about two months now, but with another round of Rax-loving guests arriving tomorrow, I finally found the motivation to write it up.

When Zsófi visited us in June, we knew we had to take her on a proper Rax adventure – you know, something for the memory bank. 😉

We set off on a sunny June morning (Zsófi and L) and a bit later in the day (Zita and L2), heading down to the train station in Payerbach. From there, we took a bus to the Preiner Gscheid, where our hike started about 30 minutes later. (And by the way, if you can decipher the bus timetable, you deserve a 10% discount on your next booking – here’s the challenge: Timetable.)

The lower sections of the Reisstalersteig and the Gretchensteig share the same path almost all the way to the Reisstalerhütte. Just before you reach the hut, a steep trail branches off to the right, offering fantastic views – at least until you’re swallowed up by the forest again. This is where Zsófi and L took a quick break, and I, driven by the motto “anything for a peaceful nap”, pushed on with L2.
This stretch eventually leads up to the Gretchensteig itself. Just before the actual via ferrata, there’s a rocky section, which, if you ask me, is trickier than the secured climbing passage that follows – but I’ll let everyone judge that for themselves.

“Wait, is that a kid up there?!”
“Hey, that’s a woman! Where’s her husband? Probably at home mowing the lawn.”
“No way she’s making it up there. We barely managed to come down. There’s got to be another way.”
“Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”

As the Hungarian group (decked out in full via ferrata gear) slowly picked their way down what they clearly considered “challenging” terrain, I had plenty of time to translate their colorful commentary for the Austrian hiker beside me – who, by the way, described the section as “no big deal”. Safe to say, we both got a good laugh out of it. 😉

And honestly, this whole encounter is a perfect example of how the same mountain trail can feel like a completely different challenge depending on who you are and how you approach it.




Once we reached the top, we skipped the usual break at the Karl-Ludwig-Haus and continued straight to the Neue Seehütte. About 30 minutes before reaching the hut, we had to pause for a quick hillside picnic (L2’s idea), before tackling a steeper descent that ended with a fantastic, gluten-free, vegan lentil stew.

The mountain had one last surprise for us – a sudden hailstorm (oh, June, you never fail to keep us on our toes) – before we met back up with Zsófi and L at the Waxriegelhaus. Together, we made it just in time for the last bus down.

Final stats: Roughly 12 km, around 900 meters of elevation gain and loss, and about 5 hours of hiking time with L2, plus three snack breaks. And as a little parting gift, we even caught a rainbow on our way back – a nice way to make up for the earlier hailstorm. 🌈

Preiner Gscheid – Gretchensteig – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Neue Seehütte – Göbl Kühn Steig – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Naturfreundehaus auf der Knofeleben und zurück

When We Don’t Feel Like Making Plans…

..we just head west.

At the second junction, we take the middle road toward Talhof, then the second forest path on the right – the one that leads up to the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben. No need for heavy packs today, since we know we’ll be up there in less than two hours, and we can skip cooking for the day.
Marco’s Naturfreundehaus is one of those rare places where both of us have plenty of options: almost everything on the menu is gluten-free, and the vegan selection keeps growing.
Today’s menu:

Pumpkin soup for L2, Ch, and Z
Potato goulash with beans for L1, L2, and Z
Blueberry strudel for Christian and L1
And, of course, a special oat milk latte for Z, as Marco likes to say, “Just for Mrs. Waldschlössl.” 😉

Both the hike up and down took about 1 hour 45 minutes each. Impressively, L1 managed the entire descent on his own, except for a 500-meter stretch. (On the way up, though, he mostly hitched a ride or took his time, so the boys – Ch and L1 – arrived about 20 minutes after us, but at least we had a table waiting by then.)

Route: Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – and back

Total: about 11.75 km, 730 meters of elevation gain.

Autumn Bliss Above the Clouds

On a beautiful November day, we embarked on the Preiner Gscheid – Martinsteig – Heukuppe – Habsburghaus – Preiner Wand – Neue Seehütte – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid trail, which is almost 21 km long and includes 1500 meters of elevation gain (+ and -). We spent 7 hours on the trail, taking our time with the ascent, jogging a bit at the top, and enjoying two short breaks. It was just Gina and me, no kids this time.

We drove to Preiner Gscheid by car, where we set off on a new and exciting route for us. The Martinsteig reminded me a bit of the Gretchensteig. After reaching Heukuppe, we continued to the Habsburghaus. By the time we got there, it was, of course, closed, but we still took a break on the terrace. The November sunshine made the moment extra special. The weather was simply perfect.

This hike was a true gem, with stunning views and a peaceful atmosphere, making it well worth the effort.