Chasing Views & Sandwiches – A Child-Friendly Summit Adventure 🏔️

We’ve been living at the Waldschlössl for over three years now, and even though we’ve explored the Rax countless times, we’ve somehow always skipped the Jakobskogel. It’s one of those classic peaks on the Rax that’s popular with tourists – reachable even for us mere mortals who don’t want to hike 10–20 km or conquer 700–800 meters of elevation. We added our own twist: 🚲 cycling, 🚡 a cable car ride, windy 📸 photo ops, and a real summit push. 🏞️

The lower station of the Rax cable car is located in Hirschwang, about 6.5 km from our home. With our electric bikes and a bike trailer (Z + L1 + L2), we made it there in about 25 minutes. Those who prefer not to pedal can choose to go by 🚗 car, 🚌 scheduled bus, or use the flexible Rufbus service.

The cable car quickly took us up the mountain (1,546 m), and from there we headed toward the Jakobskogel. The summit is at 1,736 meters, and is supposed to be about an hour’s walk from the station – it took us closer to 1.5 hours, but we had to inspect every second bush. 🌿👀

The Ottohaus was the perfect spot for a snack break 🧃🥪. While L1 enjoyed a well-earned snack with Nana, the rest of us (Aunt Gi, Z and L2) made the most of the windy but sunny weather to take some fresh family 📷 photos at the top.

The hike there and back is around 6 km, with 240 meters of elevation gain. At a relaxed, family-friendly pace, it took us about 2.5 hours. If you still have a bit of energy left on the way down, it’s well worth taking a short detour to the Höllentalaussicht for a breathtaking view of the entire valley. 🌄✨

🗺️ Route: Hirschwang – Rax Cable Car – upper station – Ottohaus – Jakobskogel – return

🥾 Distance: approx. 6 km round trip

📈 Elevation gain: 240 m

🕒 Time: approx. 2.5 hours at a kid-friendly pace

🎒 It turned into a perfect family outing: aunt, grandma, friends, kids, cable car, mountaintop – everything you’d want in a day that ends with both kids sleeping soundly. 💤 A few more photos for the family album, some shared memories – and another summit conquered. 💚🏞️

November Hike to the Krummbachstein – or: A Sweet Burden 🥾🤰🍁

What’s great about hikes around the Waldschlössl is that even familiar destinations can take on a whole new character when approached from a different direction. This time, our goal was once again the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – but we “attacked” it from a different side.

I’m not sure how well the people who recommend staying active during pregnancy know Christian 😄 – but one thing’s for sure: it’s never boring with him. This hike started out as a gentle walk (we weren’t going all the way up the Rax summit 🏔️).

We set off from Waldschlössl, as usual, and headed toward the Lackabodengraben. The path climbs gradually and pleasantly. Once at the top, instead of turning left toward Knofeleben, we continued straight on the red-yellow-red trail up to the Krummbachstein summit. Although this route is longer (around 4 km instead of the steeper 2 km), it’s much gentler – and we even saw a little snow ❄️ up there.

The sunshine ☀️ stayed with us all day, and – a rare exception – there was no strong wind at the summit. We had the chance to fully enjoy the colors and calm of autumn 🍂🍃.

That day marked the start of my seventh month of pregnancy 🤰, and, as it turned out, it was my last long hike with L2 in my belly. (After that, we only made it as far as Knofeleben.)

We descended via the steeper trail heading toward Knofeleben. Honestly, I wouldn’t recommend this route while pregnant 😅 – but with a break at the house (🍲🍲🍲 and a kid’s paradise: toy chainsaw, train 🚂, tiny cars 🚗, little playground), it turned out quite nice.

From there, we followed the tractor path down toward Eng – an easy and gentle track that even made Leno want to run 🏃. And he did! He ran the first 4 km with us – and even waited for me sometimes, which I deeply appreciated ❤️.

📍 Route:


Waldschlössl – Lackabodengraben – Krummbachstein – Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – Eng – Mariensteig – Waldschlössl

📏 Distance: 19 km

⛰️ Elevation gain: 1100 m

⏱️ Time: Uphill about 4 hours, downhill (with breaks) about 2 hours

Video: Click here

Two Heartbeats Along the Semmering Railway Trail

Since last summer, this little half-marathon had been on my mind, previously only dreamed up on a map. Thanks to Nana, I finally made it happen. I trimmed a few kilometers, as I was already familiar with those sections, but it was still perfect for a Saturday morning – fitting into Leno’s nap time – and just right for being five months pregnant.

Trains to Semmering run every two hours, so I had time in the morning to take care of things at home and play a bit. I left the house at 9:57 AM, warming up with about 700 meters of jogging to the first track.

I already knew the Semmering–Wolfsbergkogel section, so this time I started from Wolfsbergkogel station. For the same reason, I skipped the Doppelreiter lookout, but I wholeheartedly recommend both to anyone visiting for the first time.

The Bahnwanderweg, or “railway hiking trail,” follows the famous Semmering Railway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998. Along the way, there are breathtaking views of the Semmering-Rax-Schneeberg region and the famous viaducts.

Starting from Wolfsbergkogel station, I passed the old Kurhaus Semmering – built in 1909, still exuding a special atmosphere – and headed towards the 20-Schilling viewpoint. From there, all the surrounding mountains and peaks are clearly visible: from left to right, the Rax (Heukuppe, Predigtstuhl, Jakobskogel), the Kreuzberg, the Schneeberg (Klosterwappen), the Krummbachstein, and the Gahns.

Although there’s a shorter route to Breitenstein, I chose the longer and more scenic path this time. After about 2.8 km, there’s a small refreshment point (Labestation), and along the way, you pass the Ghega Museum, showcasing the work of Carl von Ghega, the visionary behind the Semmering Railway. After the museum, I turned left and approached the Speckbacherhütte via Orthof.

Here comes the only noticeable ascent of the tour: about 400 meters uphill, but in return, you’re greeted with beautiful forest trails and tranquility.

At the Speckbacherhütte, I enjoyed a well-deserved coffee – the sun filtering through the tree canopies, it was quiet and peaceful. From there, it was just a jog down: through the Stojerhöhe to Payerbach, where I got caught in a brief rain shower. One last climb under the railway overpass, up the hill, and I was home just in time: Leno had just woken up.

Route: Wolfsbergkogel – 20-Schilling Viewpoint – Orthof – Speckbacherhütte – Stojerhöhe – Payerbach – Waldschlössl

Distance: 17.74 km

Elevation Gain: +650 m / –970 m

Continue reading “Two Heartbeats Along the Semmering Railway Trail”

From Breitenstein to the Speckbacherhütte – A Train-Assisted Family Hike for the Tiniest Steps

Saturday. According to Chris, it’s the best workday of the week – finally “no one from the office bothers him.” Since we have two kids, it’s been harder to set off on hikes alone with them: at least one needs to be carried, plus a backpack, a bit of logistics… and still, these are the outings that turn into our fondest memories. Especially when someone joins us.

All you need to know about our immediate neighbors is that L2 counted both of their names (or something close 😅) among his first ten words. My main contribution to the hike was knowing the route and having a plan – and ensuring good company (since both boys came along). Karin (“Tári”) and Grandpa Christian (“Sztán”) brought everything else we could need: a flashlight, snacks, fruit, good spirits – basically everything a child could wish for.

Our destination was the Speckbacherhütte, where Alexandra welcomed us once again with a fantastic lunch – including vegan and gluten-free options.

We started our hike in Breitenstein, where we arrived by train – which made the adventure more exciting for the kids and shortened the climb. There’s a small playground at the hut where we took a longer break before descending toward Reichenau and walking back to the Waldschlössl from there.

This hike can be easily modified, and the hut is also accessible by car. If the weather looks uncertain, it’s worth waiting at the hut for the next train and quickly hiking down to Breitenstein. From there, it’s a mostly dry journey home.

Route: Breitenstein – Speckbacherhütte – Stojerhöhe – Reichenau an der Rax – Waldschlössl

📍 9.75 km

⛰ +390 m / –640 m elevation difference

🕒 Took us about 3 hours at a relaxed pace

The best hikes aren’t about where you go – but who you go with.

Hike to the Ottohaus – four seasons in one day

On this mild morning at the end of October, we woke up to snowfall and stormy winds – so we tried to delay our start. Just a few hours later, we were climbing uphill in bright sunshine – a completely surreal experience. The mountains are unpredictable, but that’s exactly what makes them magical.

By the time we reached the top, it was clear to both of us: we’ll only return here once the boys can hike on their own.

(Update May 2025 – Zita: Of course I’m still carrying L2 on my back.)

We met our friends at the Ottohaus – they had taken the cable car with their three kids, while we started from Hirschwang and followed the Törlweg. Not long after we arrived, Christian headed straight back: he ran down into the valley alone. I walked with the boys to the cable car station, and we descended together – and arrived at the base station at exactly the same time. We spent a total of four hours on the mountain.

📍 Distance: approx. 10 km

Elevation gain: approx. 1,150 m

Duration: 4 hours (gross)

Route: Hirschwang – Törlweg – Ottohaus – Praterstern – Rax cable car station

The most memorable hikes rarely go as planned – and that’s exactly what makes them unforgettable.

U4–U4 – Womanstrailday in Vienna

Is it worth it – traveling all the way from the mountains to Vienna just for a trail run?

Absolutely.

The plan was clear: #womanstrailday – and we really wanted to run together. Since the guys were heading to Vienna anyway, the decision was easy: I’m coming along.

From U4 to U4, out of the daily grind and into trail running fun – right in the heart of the city.

Admittedly, I was skeptical at first. Trail running in Vienna?

Do you even need trail shoes for that?!

But, as so often in life: you just have to try it.

And yes – it was muddy enough.

And hot.

And challenging.

But above all: beautiful.

In the end, it turned into 27 km with 800 meters of elevation gain – right in Vienna!

Four women, four different training goals, four perspectives – and still one shared feeling: connection.

Each of us took something away: training effect, conversation, nature, sweating, heat acclimation, laughter, motivation.

Thanks, Vienna, for the summer mud.

Thanks, ladies, for the time together.

Princess Diaries (Part 2)

“Don’t you ever long for home?” – I also felt that the question sounded like a cliché. However, I was simply interested in the answer.

“I do what I love doing and it doesn’t matter where I am.” I am sure I cannot quote Eszter’s answer word-by-word, but perhaps I do not even need to be verbatim.

Eszter is a caring mother of two lovely girls; and beyond this, she is a genius of trail runners (3rd place at Western States 100-Mile Endurance Run last year), and at the weekend she became the Hungarian champion at the Vienna Marathon. She is one of those people who will always bring back memories from the times when I was twenty years old. When I was dreaming about a small, enchanting café where we could meet people… like Eszter, her mother and her friend, Kata Kertész. Three wonderful and strong women. Talking about trailrunning, motherhood, training, motivation and challenges. Talking without taboos.

Thank you for the marvellous morning!

A sunset fading into the mist – a silent sunrise above the clouds 🌫🌅

We’ve recommended the hike to Jubiläumsaussicht many times – this week I tested it twice to see if you can rise above the fog. Both times, I was lucky. 🌫🌅

Fog is a rare visitor here in Reichenau – maybe because of all the wind. But growing up in Veszprém (Hungary), I still wait for those foggy November mornings with a childlike excitement, when the Rax disappears from view or the valley wraps itself in a soft mist by late afternoon.

It was 2021. Chris’s dad was visiting us, which kept Leno fully occupied – so I took the chance to head out for a quiet morning run.

I started on the path next to the Waldschlössl, turned right by the new bee hotel under construction, and cut through a short forest section instead of following the paved road. At Hochberger, the surrounding mountains began to emerge, though the hills were still cloaked in thick mist. From there, it was about 25 minutes of brisk walking to the lookout, where the first rays of sunlight gently broke through the fog – a true gift of the weather.

On the way back, I followed the yellow trail: a bit further up the blue path, then left onto the tractor road, and after about half a kilometer, I was back on familiar trails heading home to the Waldschlössl.

If you ever want to experience the peaceful silence of the fog and the slow awakening of the hills, we wholeheartedly recommend this route – short, varied, and full of surprises in every season. 🏞🍂

📍 Distance: 7-9 km

⛰ Elevation gain: approx. 450 m

⏱ Duration: 1 hour 15 minutes – 3 hours (depending on pace)

Route: Waldschlössl – Hochberger (blue trail) – Jubiläumsaussicht – yellow trail – back to Waldschlössl

🏔 A Not-So-Everyday Schneeberg Hike with a Three-Month-Old Baby

How do you plan a hiking day with a baby carrier and as little gear as possible?

Simple: First, you write a list of the essentials. Then you head out – and leave the list at home. From that point on, all you really need is one thing: improvisation. (Sometimes in very literal ways – like sliding down snow. Without a sled. But we’ll get to that later.)

At 8:05 a.m., just 200 meters from the Waldschlössl, our neighbor Regina asked me:

– “Are you heading up to Marco today?”

And I honestly didn’t even know yet if we’d make it to the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben.

The route? A Sunday classic: through the Eng, then instead of taking the Mitterberggraben turnoff, we went right toward the Lackabodengraben and continued on the trail toward Krummbachstein.


At the Krummbachsattel, the question arose:

➡️ Should we keep going toward the Schneeberg?

Or

☀️ Stay near Knofeleben, take it easy and enjoy a proper break?

Well:

👶 The baby was asleep.

🌞 The sun was shining.

🌡 The temperature was perfect.

🕙 And it was only 10:00 a.m.

So, we kept going.

At the ruins of Baumgartnerhaus (10:45), L2 woke up. We found a wind-sheltered spot with some shade and had a quick snack break (🤱🏼).

15 minutes later: another stop – L2 was still not fully on board (🤱🏼). Since I wasn’t sure if the last cogwheel train really left at 3:15 p.m., there wasn’t much room for hesitation. We had to move.

The next stretch was steep and rocky – L2 was not impressed. But after five minutes of mild protest, he fell back asleep. By exactly 12:00 noon, we made it to the top – and I was honestly just relieved we’d made it past that section.

What followed was just a pleasant walk to the Klosterwappen (1:05 p.m.). Truly pleasant. Until we hit a small patch of snow (or rather, ice) just below the Fischerhütte. L2 woke up again – and made it very clear he would prefer to keep sleeping. With curious hikers watching, a slippery path ahead, and the decision came quickly: Sit down in the snow, grab the rope – and slide. Well, I slid. On my butt. L2 screamed. Two minutes later: back asleep. Win.

All the planned stops (Damböckhaus, Fischerhütte, and Damböckhaus again) were skipped – L2 was sleeping too deeply. And just like that, we found ourselves at the final station of the Schneebergbahn at 2:05 p.m.

On the train, no one guessed that we hadn’t just hiked down from the Klosterwappen –but had walked the whole way from Reichenau, with baby carrier and all. By 3:00 p.m., we were already waiting in Puchberg for the replacement bus.

I’d love to say that the last walk from Payerbach back to the Waldschlössl was the perfect end to the day – but honestly, those last 90 vertical meters felt more like crawling and silent mantras than hiking, especially three months postpartum. L2? Blissfully napping again.

📍 Route:

Waldschlössl – Eng – Lackabodengraben – Krummbachsattel – Klosterwappen – Fischerhütte – Damböckhaus – Hochschneeberg mountain station

📏 16.7 km

📈 1,650 m ascent

📉 400 m descent

🕒 6 hours (including two short breaks)

👶 1 baby in the front carrier, backpack in the back

🎒 0 sled

😅 1 slide on the butt

❤️ 100% memories

Semi-optimal is still a win – Sonnwendstein in reverse, coffee forward

A new favorite phrase has quietly made its way into our vocabulary: semi-optimal. We learned it from Anne. And honestly, few things have ever described a trail run quite so perfectly.

The plan: our classic Sonnwendstein route – but backwards. Starting from Waldschlössl, passing through Payerbach, Küb, Schottwien, and Maria Schutz, then climbing the Gebirgsjägersteig, crossing the Sonnwendstein, and finally descending into Semmering. And maybe – just maybe – we thought about running all the way home from there. Theoretically.

Motivation? On holiday today. Probably hanging out somewhere on the Rax. Or at Katja’s. Each of us had at least one excellent excuse why we didn’t really have to do this today. And as for running back from Semmering – well, we happily skipped that part.

In reality, it all ended in the Kaffeehalle. Which honestly was no bad place to end up: excellent coffee, panoramic views, and that comforting feeling of having made one good decision – namely, taking the train. For that cappuccino, we could have climbed another 400 vertical meters. But we didn’t.


Semi-optimal – but with (vegan) milk foam.

The Sonnwendstein? Conquered again – and once again we decided to avoid it for a while. That trail stretches like chewing gum, and by the seventh tree root you start thinking: if we’re climbing this much, why not just head straight to the Rax? 😅

And if someone asks how it went?

Semi-optimal – but beautiful.

📍 Route: Waldschlössl – Payerbach – Küb – Schottwien – Maria Schutz – Gebirgsjägersteig – Sonnwendstein – Semmering

📏 Distance: 22.4 km

⏱️ Duration: around 4 hours (for the most part, it still qualified as trail running)

⛰️ Elevation: +1300 m, -940 m

In summary:

No run back home, but a great coffee.
No motivation, but plenty of willpower.
No more Sonnwendstein… at least not until next month. 😋

For a day we weren’t really feeling it, it turned out just fine.


Semi-optimal is still a win.

Windstorm, Sleet and a Castle Ruin – A Family Adventure, Waldschlössl-Style

This weekend brought back that “classic” Schneedörfl weather: windstorm, drizzly (and sometimes snowy) rain, and a steady 3°C – just perfect for a little family outing!

Continue reading “Windstorm, Sleet and a Castle Ruin – A Family Adventure, Waldschlössl-Style”

🛝 A place to play and relax: The “Kinderinsel” playground in Reichenau

If you’re out and about with kids, a walk through Reichenau is definitely worth it. Right by the Schwarza river, in the spa park, lies the lovingly designed playground called “Kinderinsel.”

Continue reading “🛝 A place to play and relax: The “Kinderinsel” playground in Reichenau”

What Might Be on the Other Side of the Tunnel? – A Little Afternoon Exploration

Some days go exactly as planned. Others… don’t. Today, we wanted to head to Prigglitz, but with some luggage to sort, a changeover in the guesthouse, and a well-deserved load of laundry, the day got away from us. So we started later than expected and changed our destination: Grillenberg it was – and we’re so glad we did!

Continue reading “What Might Be on the Other Side of the Tunnel? – A Little Afternoon Exploration”

Speedy Aunties on the Rax – A Mother’s Day Trail

Forget brunch – this Mother’s Day, we decided to conquer the Rax. We kicked off our adventure at the parking lot by the main road, strapped on our backpacks, and hit the Rudolfsteig. Just 3 kilometers in, and we’d already climbed 850 meters. Anne’s smile might not have been entirely genuine on some of the more exposed sections, but who could blame her? The views made it all worth it.

The trail continued steeply through the forest, and after around 4 kilometers and 1100 meters of climbing, we reached the Gloggnitzer Hütte – the perfect spot for a quick breather and a warm elderflower drink.

For the descent, we opted for the faster route: a wide forest road through Hirschtal and on into the Kleine Höllental.

17 kilometers with 1200 meters of elevation gain in just 4 hours – the official time to the hut alone is 4.5 hours. Now that’s a Mother’s Day we can get behind – powerful, together, and packed with altitude.

Höllental Parkplatz – Rudolfsteig – Gloggnitzer Hütte – Großer Kesselgraben – Hirschtal – Kleines Höllental (forest road) and back

Parking: Here

Morning Coffee with a View – Kicking Off the Weekend on the Trail

“Good morning. Just a heads-up: we’ve got no water in the entire house this morning. Haven’t had my coffee yet 🤪” – that’s how Anne’s day started.

For us, the mission was clear: Speckbacherhütte, as quickly as possible! Just after 9 a.m., we finally had that much-needed first coffee in hand – and the world felt right again.

Four ladies, fresh mountain air, a beautifully sunny day, and a trail that took us from the Waldschlössl, over the Stojerhöhe, up to the Speckbacherhütte, and then back down through Mayerhöfen and Reichenau. It was still cool and crisp in the valley, but warm and sunny at the top – perfect for taking deep breaths and stretching the legs.

On the final climb, we picked up the pace a bit, making it (well, almost) back home by 10:30 a.m., just in time to take over the kids, so Christian could start his workday.

A trailrun with 14 kilometers and 740 meters of elevation in 2 hours and 20 minutes – a perfect start to the weekend.

Route: Waldschlössl – Payerbachgraben – Stojerhöhe – Speckbacherhütte – Mayerhöfen – Reichenau – Waldschlössl 

Elevation Instead of Flowers – A Name Day on the Trail

“A 30 km loop with 1,500 meters of elevation gain, ideally with three 500-meter climbs – can you be our guide for that?” Egon asked me a few weeks ago.

“Sure,” I said. “We’ll just squeeze in a couple of coffee breaks—then you’ll get your three climbs.”

“Let’s keep it focused,” Egon added. “The goal is to finish in under six hours.”

Challenge accepted.

That was the simple plan. It was surprisingly crisp when I stood in front of the Waldschlössl at 7:15 a.m.—but the slight tingle in my legs told me: today would be something special.

By 8:30, we were already at the top of the first climb (700 m gain). Egon grinned, clearly pleased. I took a five-minute break—almost mandatory according to my training plan. That morning, the apple juice with hot water at the Knofeleben mountain hut tasted like a holiday drink. Cheers to that!

Since moving to Austria, I sometimes forget that in Hungary, we celebrate name days. But honestly—what better way to spend it than out on the trails with someone like Egon? A trail expert, running buddy, and all-around motivator.

He was the one who introduced me to trail running—before we even moved to Reichenau—after I got into ultrarunning through him. And today, he showed me something new again: how to use trail poles properly (thanks, Anne!) and how to run downhill efficiently.

Single trails? Bring it on!

Our route:

Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Knofeleben – Krummbachstein – Emmysteig – Waxriegel – Baumgartner – Bodenwiese – Waldburgangerhütte – Waldschlössl.

By the end, my watch showed 29.7 km and 1,770 meters of elevation gain in 5:45, including breaks—featuring (more or less) three solid, rewarding climbs.

A name day morning filled with views, apple juice, trail running, two summit crosses, lots of laughs, new skills—and one (or rather two) big smiles. And the sense of being exactly where I’m meant to be.

Spring Hike to the Waxriegelhaus – Fresh Air, Stunning Views, and Tired Little Legs

Last week, we took advantage of the beautiful spring weather and headed to the Waxriegelhaus. A special thanks to our wonderful neighbor, who not only kept us company but also made Leno’s midday nap possible – carrying a child on your back is no small feat! ❤️

We started at the Preiner Gscheid, sitting at 1,070 meters, just a 20-minute drive from our place, though it’s also accessible by bus from spring to autumn. From here, you have a few options for reaching the Waxriegelhaus:
• The longer, more gradual tractor path: about 3.5 km one way, with 300 to 350 meters of elevation gain – perfect for a steady hike.
• The steeper, shorter route: around 1.5 km one way, with the same elevation gain, for those who like a bit of a challenge.

Despite the usual snow at this altitude, we were lucky to enjoy bright sunshine, breathtaking views over a sea of fog, and a fantastic lentil stew at the Waxriegelhaus as a reward.

We took about 1.5 hours for the 3.8 km round trip, including a short nap break for Leno on the way up. On the way down, we had to pick up the pace to keep up with our little “express train,” who decided to tackle the whole descent on foot.

It’s an ideal short hike for families, and if there’s enough snow, it’s even perfect for a sled ride back down. On clear days, you can also continue up to the Rax peaks for even more spectacular views.

Preiner Gscheid – Gretchensteig – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Neue Seehütte – Göbl Kühn Steig – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

I always get a kick out of overhearing Hungarian hikers on the Rax. They tend to assume they’re the only ones around who understand their conversations:
“Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”


But let’s start from the beginning. I’ve owed you this trip report for about two months now, but with another round of Rax-loving guests arriving tomorrow, I finally found the motivation to write it up.

When Zsófi visited us in June, we knew we had to take her on a proper Rax adventure – you know, something for the memory bank. 😉

We set off on a sunny June morning (Zsófi and L) and a bit later in the day (Zita and L2), heading down to the train station in Payerbach. From there, we took a bus to the Preiner Gscheid, where our hike started about 30 minutes later. (And by the way, if you can decipher the bus timetable, you deserve a 10% discount on your next booking – here’s the challenge: Timetable.)

The lower sections of the Reisstalersteig and the Gretchensteig share the same path almost all the way to the Reisstalerhütte. Just before you reach the hut, a steep trail branches off to the right, offering fantastic views – at least until you’re swallowed up by the forest again. This is where Zsófi and L took a quick break, and I, driven by the motto “anything for a peaceful nap”, pushed on with L2.
This stretch eventually leads up to the Gretchensteig itself. Just before the actual via ferrata, there’s a rocky section, which, if you ask me, is trickier than the secured climbing passage that follows – but I’ll let everyone judge that for themselves.

“Wait, is that a kid up there?!”
“Hey, that’s a woman! Where’s her husband? Probably at home mowing the lawn.”
“No way she’s making it up there. We barely managed to come down. There’s got to be another way.”
“Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”

As the Hungarian group (decked out in full via ferrata gear) slowly picked their way down what they clearly considered “challenging” terrain, I had plenty of time to translate their colorful commentary for the Austrian hiker beside me – who, by the way, described the section as “no big deal”. Safe to say, we both got a good laugh out of it. 😉

And honestly, this whole encounter is a perfect example of how the same mountain trail can feel like a completely different challenge depending on who you are and how you approach it.




Once we reached the top, we skipped the usual break at the Karl-Ludwig-Haus and continued straight to the Neue Seehütte. About 30 minutes before reaching the hut, we had to pause for a quick hillside picnic (L2’s idea), before tackling a steeper descent that ended with a fantastic, gluten-free, vegan lentil stew.

The mountain had one last surprise for us – a sudden hailstorm (oh, June, you never fail to keep us on our toes) – before we met back up with Zsófi and L at the Waxriegelhaus. Together, we made it just in time for the last bus down.

Final stats: Roughly 12 km, around 900 meters of elevation gain and loss, and about 5 hours of hiking time with L2, plus three snack breaks. And as a little parting gift, we even caught a rainbow on our way back – a nice way to make up for the earlier hailstorm. 🌈

Preiner Gscheid – Gretchensteig – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Neue Seehütte – Göbl Kühn Steig – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Naturfreundehaus auf der Knofeleben und zurück

When We Don’t Feel Like Making Plans…

..we just head west.

At the second junction, we take the middle road toward Talhof, then the second forest path on the right – the one that leads up to the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben. No need for heavy packs today, since we know we’ll be up there in less than two hours, and we can skip cooking for the day.
Marco’s Naturfreundehaus is one of those rare places where both of us have plenty of options: almost everything on the menu is gluten-free, and the vegan selection keeps growing.
Today’s menu:

Pumpkin soup for L2, Ch, and Z
Potato goulash with beans for L1, L2, and Z
Blueberry strudel for Christian and L1
And, of course, a special oat milk latte for Z, as Marco likes to say, “Just for Mrs. Waldschlössl.” 😉

Both the hike up and down took about 1 hour 45 minutes each. Impressively, L1 managed the entire descent on his own, except for a 500-meter stretch. (On the way up, though, he mostly hitched a ride or took his time, so the boys – Ch and L1 – arrived about 20 minutes after us, but at least we had a table waiting by then.)

Route: Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – and back

Total: about 11.75 km, 730 meters of elevation gain.

Autumn Bliss Above the Clouds

On a beautiful November day, we embarked on the Preiner Gscheid – Martinsteig – Heukuppe – Habsburghaus – Preiner Wand – Neue Seehütte – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid trail, which is almost 21 km long and includes 1500 meters of elevation gain (+ and -). We spent 7 hours on the trail, taking our time with the ascent, jogging a bit at the top, and enjoying two short breaks. It was just Gina and me, no kids this time.

We drove to Preiner Gscheid by car, where we set off on a new and exciting route for us. The Martinsteig reminded me a bit of the Gretchensteig. After reaching Heukuppe, we continued to the Habsburghaus. By the time we got there, it was, of course, closed, but we still took a break on the terrace. The November sunshine made the moment extra special. The weather was simply perfect.

This hike was a true gem, with stunning views and a peaceful atmosphere, making it well worth the effort.