Category: Trips

Bad weather? Off to the Heindl chocolate factory in Vienna!

Excursion tip with the Lower Austria Card

When the weather doesn’t cooperate, we love to grab our Lower Austria Card and head to one of our favorite destinations: the Heindl chocolate factory in Vienna. It’s super easy to organize and a highlight every year – not just for the kids!

From where we live, it takes about an hour by train to get to Vienna. We get off at Vienna Meidling, then take the Badner Bahn for about 10 more minutes to the Inzersdorf Lokalbahn stop. From there, it’s a short five-minute walk – and we’re already standing in front of the Heindl chocolate factory.

You can drop by spontaneously, taste some chocolate, explore the small but charming museum, and of course browse the shop. If you want, you can also book a workshop in advance – for example, for children. It’s fun, educational, and, of course, delightfully sweet.

For us, it’s a true all-round excursion: relaxed, delicious – and best of all, independent of the weather. We’re always happy to go back!

Autumn Lights and Frosty Trails – A Girls’ Trip from Spital am Semmering over Kampalpe

While the boys were off on their own adventure, the four of us women enjoyed a “girls’ day” – discovering a brand-new route, even for me. We took the train to Spital am Semmering, then set off on foot and at a light jog along the Kampalpe ridge, following a long, varied trail all the way back to Payerbach and finally home to the Waldschlössl.

📍 Route: Spital am Semmering – Kampalpe – Wolfsbergkogel – Gasthaus Polleres – Payerbach – Waldschlössl

Distance: approx. 24.6 km

Elevation gain/loss: +1,200 m / -1,400 m

Net time: 3 hours 40 minutes of steady hiking and jogging

A true autumn gift – sunny skies, frosty paths, cool valleys, and crisp air. The trail was a real surprise – the peaceful and untamed Kampalpe ridge offered stunning views and a very runnable, scenic route. After Wolfsbergkogel, just as our energy began to dip, we reached Gasthaus Polleres at the perfect time. We stopped for a quick refreshment and were warmly welcomed – such hospitality is rare these days.

A truly special day – not just for the views or the route, but because of the great company, the calm of the mountains, and the magical autumn light. Days like these are a beautiful reminder of how many ways there are to recharge: through movement, meaningful conversation, and good companionship.

Chasing Views & Sandwiches – A Child-Friendly Summit Adventure 🏔️

We’ve been living at the Waldschlössl for over three years now, and even though we’ve explored the Rax countless times, we’ve somehow always skipped the Jakobskogel. It’s one of those classic peaks on the Rax that’s popular with tourists – reachable even for us mere mortals who don’t want to hike 10–20 km or conquer 700–800 meters of elevation. We added our own twist: 🚲 cycling, 🚡 a cable car ride, windy 📸 photo ops, and a real summit push. 🏞️

The lower station of the Rax cable car is located in Hirschwang, about 6.5 km from our home. With our electric bikes and a bike trailer (Z + L1 + L2), we made it there in about 25 minutes. Those who prefer not to pedal can choose to go by 🚗 car, 🚌 scheduled bus, or use the flexible Rufbus service.

The cable car quickly took us up the mountain (1,546 m), and from there we headed toward the Jakobskogel. The summit is at 1,736 meters, and is supposed to be about an hour’s walk from the station – it took us closer to 1.5 hours, but we had to inspect every second bush. 🌿👀

The Ottohaus was the perfect spot for a snack break 🧃🥪. While L1 enjoyed a well-earned snack with Nana, the rest of us (Aunt Gi, Z and L2) made the most of the windy but sunny weather to take some fresh family 📷 photos at the top.

The hike there and back is around 6 km, with 240 meters of elevation gain. At a relaxed, family-friendly pace, it took us about 2.5 hours. If you still have a bit of energy left on the way down, it’s well worth taking a short detour to the Höllentalaussicht for a breathtaking view of the entire valley. 🌄✨

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🗺️ Route: Hirschwang – Rax Cable Car – upper station – Ottohaus – Jakobskogel – return

🥾 Distance: approx. 6 km round trip

📈 Elevation gain: 240 m

🕒 Time: approx. 2.5 hours at a kid-friendly pace

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🎒 It turned into a perfect family outing: aunt, grandma, friends, kids, cable car, mountaintop – everything you’d want in a day that ends with both kids sleeping soundly. 💤 A few more photos for the family album, some shared memories – and another summit conquered. 💚🏞️

Beyond the Peaks of the Schneeberg

In Memory of Pascal Le Bail

One day, all that will remain are the shared experiences. The moments we lived together. Songs, scents, sounds. The memories.

May 27, 2008

My father was 54 years old when, while mowing the lawn, a sudden heart attack took him from us within seconds. One wrong move, an unexpected illness. And suddenly, everything changes.

July 20, 2024 – Saturday

Anne, a dear running friend from Vienna, wrote: “Tomorrow: Weichtalklamm, Schneeberg, Buchtelhütte and back – with Pascal.” A quick check-in with Christian – the boys were heading to St. Corona for a “guys’ day” – and I got the green light.

This tour had been on my bucket list for a long time. But I kept postponing it. On the one hand, I wasn’t sure whether it was a good idea to hike through the Weichtalklamm on my own (even though Christian put it this way: “Of course I know it – I used to RUN down that route.” 🤪)
On the other hand, such a tour requires at least half a day off. Today, everything aligned perfectly.

July 21, 2024 – Sunday

By 8:30 a.m. I was already at the bus stop in Payerbach. I was one of the last to board – the bus was full after that. Of course, Anne and Pascal were among the first. Shortly after nine, we arrived at the Weichtalhaus in the Höllental.

The gorge was breathtaking. The steep trail, the rocks, the ladders, the climbing – every step felt like it was pulling us upward with some invisible strength. It’s rare to go on a trail run or mountain hike with three people where everything just flows: no explanations, no waiting – like a well-practiced team. I have never met a more cautious and thoughtful man in the mountains than Pascal. He knew and respected the area like very few others.

By 10:30 a.m. we reached the Kienthalerhütte, and shortly before noon we stood together at the summit of the Klosterwappen – 2,076 meters – the highest point of the Schneeberg. From there we continued quickly to the Baumgartner hut – Anne and Pascal were rewarded with a well-earned Buchtel, and I got a large elderflower juice. Just a few minutes later, we jogged on – through the Lackabodengraben, across the Eng, along the Mariensteig, and finally down to the Waldschlössl.

There are tours that are about more than just running. They are moments that etch themselves deep into memory. This day was one of them.

—

Route:

Weichtalhaus – Weichtalklamm – Kienthalerhütte – Klosterwappen – Schutzhütte Baumgartner – Lackabodengraben – Eng – Mariensteig – Waldschlössl

Distance: approx. 21.7 km

Elevation gain/loss: +1,585 m / –1,558 m

Duration: trail running, 5 hours 45 minutes total, including two short breaks

—

End of August 2024

About a month later, the news arrived:

“Hohe Wand. 54-year-old man fatally injured while climbing.”

July 21, 2024

On the trail between the Kienthalerhütte and the Klosterwappen, there is a cross. We arrived there at exactly 11:00 a.m.
We paused for a moment, taking in the view. Pascal could name every peak around us. He knew the mountains. A strange feeling came over me as we read the inscription on the cross:

“Stop and read:

What you are now, I once was.

What I am now, you shall one day be,

And you too will be covered by the same earth…”

No grand words were needed. Only the steps. The rocks. The July sunshine. The silence. The moments that remain. And the gratitude for the time shared.

Where It All Began – From the Waldschlössl to the Summit of the Schneeberg 🏔️🏃🏼

It’s been over three years since we started the Waldschlössl project, and ever since then, I (Christian) hadn’t been back up the Schneeberg – even though, when viewed from the Schwarzatal, the Waldschlössl quite literally sits on its slope. During those first years, before we had moved into the Waldschlössl, I hardly went hiking at all – I only came here to work on the construction site.

Only after we moved to Schneedörfl did mountain hikes slowly return to our lives – but they usually led to the Rax or, at most, to the Krummbachstein on “our side” of the valley.

And yet, the thought never really left me. People often ask how I came up with the idea for the Waldschlössl project – and then I tell them about my earlier hikes: from Puchberg up the Schneeberg, then down via the Eng, past what is now our home, and finally to the train station in Payerbach-Reichenau. At the end of those hikes, I often found myself thinking, “You should live here someday.” Over time, a mix of wistfulness and ambition grew out of those memories – and that’s what ultimately motivated me to take on the Schneeberg again, after all these years.

Zita kindly offered to take care of the kids that Sunday – so I set off early in the morning at 6:05. The mist in the valley had just started to lift, everything was still damp from the night, but otherwise, the weather was perfect for a mountain tour.

I made good progress: by 7:09 I was already at Knofeleben, then headed straight on to the Krummbachstein (on the summit by 7:43), took a short break, and jogged down to the Krummbachsattel. From there, I climbed the Emmysteig trail up to what I call the “half-shoe hiker highway” – the wide path that runs from the upper station of the Schneeberg cog railway to the Fischerhütte.

That’s where I met the first other hikers of the day. Still, it’s a stretch you can jog again for a bit, before reaching the final steep climb to the Klosterwappen.

At 9:21, I stood on the summit – the highest point of the Schneeberg. I ate my sandwich, enjoyed the quiet (and the fact that there were still only a few people around), and after a 10-minute rest, I started heading back down.

I returned to the Krummbachsattel via the same path, but skipped the Krummbachstein this time. Instead, I ran down via Alpleck, through the Lackabodengraben, and along the Eng – practically in one go – back home.

At exactly 11:29, I arrived at the Waldschlössl – just in time for a warm lunch. Thanks, Zita 😉

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📍 Route: Waldschlössl – Knofeleben – Krummbachstein – Krummbachsattel – Emmysteig – Klosterwappen – Krummbachsattel – Alpleck – Lackabodengraben – Eng – Waldschlössl

📏 Distance: 26 km

⬆️ Elevation gain: approx. 1800 m

⏱️ Duration: Ascent 3:15 h, summit break 10 min, descent 2:05 h 🏃‍♂️ (trail running – when your pregnant wife and toddler are waiting at home with a hot lunch)

November Hike to the Krummbachstein – or: A Sweet Burden 🥾🤰🍁

What’s great about hikes around the Waldschlössl is that even familiar destinations can take on a whole new character when approached from a different direction. This time, our goal was once again the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – but we “attacked” it from a different side.

I’m not sure how well the people who recommend staying active during pregnancy know Christian 😄 – but one thing’s for sure: it’s never boring with him. This hike started out as a gentle walk (we weren’t going all the way up the Rax summit 🏔️).

We set off from Waldschlössl, as usual, and headed toward the Lackabodengraben. The path climbs gradually and pleasantly. Once at the top, instead of turning left toward Knofeleben, we continued straight on the red-yellow-red trail up to the Krummbachstein summit. Although this route is longer (around 4 km instead of the steeper 2 km), it’s much gentler – and we even saw a little snow ❄️ up there.

The sunshine ☀️ stayed with us all day, and – a rare exception – there was no strong wind at the summit. We had the chance to fully enjoy the colors and calm of autumn 🍂🍃.

That day marked the start of my seventh month of pregnancy 🤰, and, as it turned out, it was my last long hike with L2 in my belly. (After that, we only made it as far as Knofeleben.)

We descended via the steeper trail heading toward Knofeleben. Honestly, I wouldn’t recommend this route while pregnant 😅 – but with a break at the house (🍲🍲🍲 and a kid’s paradise: toy chainsaw, train 🚂, tiny cars 🚗, little playground), it turned out quite nice.

From there, we followed the tractor path down toward Eng – an easy and gentle track that even made Leno want to run 🏃. And he did! He ran the first 4 km with us – and even waited for me sometimes, which I deeply appreciated ❤️.

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📍 Route:


Waldschlössl – Lackabodengraben – Krummbachstein – Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – Eng – Mariensteig – Waldschlössl

📏 Distance: 19 km

⛰️ Elevation gain: 1100 m

⏱️ Time: Uphill about 4 hours, downhill (with breaks) about 2 hours

Video: Click here

Sonnwendstein with Kids and Friends – A Waldschlössl-Style Warm-Up Before the Race Day

On what was just another working Saturday – at least according to Christian, who was busy building the greenhouse – Z and the two Ls set off to make the most of the sunshine, our Lower Austria Card, and most of all, the great company of our friends from Vienna

This day was all about tapering – with a trail running race ahead for L1 and me the next day, this hike was more of a gentle warm-up and a laid-back day (Spoiler: It wasn’t).

Our logistics worked like a charm: we rolled down to the train station by bike, had our snack on the train, L2 took a short but efficient nap, and soon we arrived in Semmering. From there, we headed towards the cable car and met up with our friends from Vienna: kids company ✅, hiking motivation ✅.

A few minutes later, the gondola took us up to Hirschenkogel – a familiar place for the kids from last year, with its awesome playground, water fun, marble run, climbing frames, and pre-lunch picnic. From there, we continued on the panorama trail towards Sonnwendstein. It’s a bit longer and steeper than the forest route, but the views are stunning – and from the big cross near the summit, you get almost the same breathtaking vista as from the actual peak. Since I had sworn just three weeks earlier not to climb that mountain again for a while (More), this was a great alternative. Everyone agreed: one summit a day is plenty 😅.

All four kids hiked with enthusiasm. We carried the little ones now and then, while the two older boys managed to walk most of it on their own. When L1 got tired of the uphill, we did what Boribon (a Hungarian bear from a children’s book) would do after falling and bumping his knee: he carried the backpack, I carried him. Or in his words:

“Mum, I’m in the front, because L2 is in the back!”

At Pollereshütte, they had tasty local dishes, plus a gluten-free and vegan lentil stew – highly recommended. After a short rest, we headed back down via the forest trail.

Finally, we took the gondola down again – and thanks to our friends, we even got a ride back to the Semmering train station. From there, it was a smooth trip home.

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Route: Semmering Train Station – Passhöhe – Cable Car – Hirschenkogel – Sonnwendstein (Pollereshütte) – Hirschenkogel – Cable Car – Semmering Train Station

Hiking Distance:

• From the train station to the cable car base: about 1.8 km, 100 meters elevation gain. L1 and I did it in 20 minutes at a brisk pace.

• Hirschenkogel–Pollereshütte–Hirschenkogel: 7.8 km with 336 meters elevation gain. With four kids under five, it took us 3 hours and 15 minutes.

Two Heartbeats Along the Semmering Railway Trail

Since last summer, this little half-marathon had been on my mind, previously only dreamed up on a map. Thanks to Nana, I finally made it happen. I trimmed a few kilometers, as I was already familiar with those sections, but it was still perfect for a Saturday morning – fitting into Leno’s nap time – and just right for being five months pregnant.

Trains to Semmering run every two hours, so I had time in the morning to take care of things at home and play a bit. I left the house at 9:57 AM, warming up with about 700 meters of jogging to the first track.

I already knew the Semmering–Wolfsbergkogel section, so this time I started from Wolfsbergkogel station. For the same reason, I skipped the Doppelreiter lookout, but I wholeheartedly recommend both to anyone visiting for the first time.

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The Bahnwanderweg, or “railway hiking trail,” follows the famous Semmering Railway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998. Along the way, there are breathtaking views of the Semmering-Rax-Schneeberg region and the famous viaducts.

Starting from Wolfsbergkogel station, I passed the old Kurhaus Semmering – built in 1909, still exuding a special atmosphere – and headed towards the 20-Schilling viewpoint. From there, all the surrounding mountains and peaks are clearly visible: from left to right, the Rax (Heukuppe, Predigtstuhl, Jakobskogel), the Kreuzberg, the Schneeberg (Klosterwappen), the Krummbachstein, and the Gahns.

Although there’s a shorter route to Breitenstein, I chose the longer and more scenic path this time. After about 2.8 km, there’s a small refreshment point (Labestation), and along the way, you pass the Ghega Museum, showcasing the work of Carl von Ghega, the visionary behind the Semmering Railway. After the museum, I turned left and approached the Speckbacherhütte via Orthof.

Here comes the only noticeable ascent of the tour: about 400 meters uphill, but in return, you’re greeted with beautiful forest trails and tranquility.

At the Speckbacherhütte, I enjoyed a well-deserved coffee – the sun filtering through the tree canopies, it was quiet and peaceful. From there, it was just a jog down: through the Stojerhöhe to Payerbach, where I got caught in a brief rain shower. One last climb under the railway overpass, up the hill, and I was home just in time: Leno had just woken up.

Route: Wolfsbergkogel – 20-Schilling Viewpoint – Orthof – Speckbacherhütte – Stojerhöhe – Payerbach – Waldschlössl

Distance: 17.74 km

Elevation Gain: +650 m / –970 m

Continue reading “Two Heartbeats Along the Semmering Railway Trail”

From Breitenstein to the Speckbacherhütte – A Train-Assisted Family Hike for the Tiniest Steps

Saturday. According to Chris, it’s the best workday of the week – finally “no one from the office bothers him.” Since we have two kids, it’s been harder to set off on hikes alone with them: at least one needs to be carried, plus a backpack, a bit of logistics… and still, these are the outings that turn into our fondest memories. Especially when someone joins us.

All you need to know about our immediate neighbors is that L2 counted both of their names (or something close 😅) among his first ten words. My main contribution to the hike was knowing the route and having a plan – and ensuring good company (since both boys came along). Karin (“Tári”) and Grandpa Christian (“Sztán”) brought everything else we could need: a flashlight, snacks, fruit, good spirits – basically everything a child could wish for.

Our destination was the Speckbacherhütte, where Alexandra welcomed us once again with a fantastic lunch – including vegan and gluten-free options.

We started our hike in Breitenstein, where we arrived by train – which made the adventure more exciting for the kids and shortened the climb. There’s a small playground at the hut where we took a longer break before descending toward Reichenau and walking back to the Waldschlössl from there.

This hike can be easily modified, and the hut is also accessible by car. If the weather looks uncertain, it’s worth waiting at the hut for the next train and quickly hiking down to Breitenstein. From there, it’s a mostly dry journey home.

Route: Breitenstein – Speckbacherhütte – Stojerhöhe – Reichenau an der Rax – Waldschlössl

📍 9.75 km

⛰ +390 m / –640 m elevation difference

🕒 Took us about 3 hours at a relaxed pace

The best hikes aren’t about where you go – but who you go with.

Rufbus – 🚕 🛤️ A Mountain Holiday – Without a Car!

A trip to the mountains is always a true adventure – and the best part: you don’t even need a car! 🚌🚊

Payerbach-Reichenau train station is located just about 700 meters (1.2 km via paved road) from the Waldschlössl. 

Trains from Vienna arrive every hour, often even every half hour.

If you arrive by public transport, you’ll receive a 10% discount when booking through our website with the code Öffi.

And it gets even better:

If you’re staying in the Rax or Semmering region, you can use the Rufbus shuttle for free – a fantastic way to explore the area in a relaxed and eco-friendly way.

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What is the Rufbus?

The Rufbus is a call-based shared taxi service that operates daily from 8:30 AM to 6:00 PM.

It conveniently takes you to hiking trails, cable cars, accommodations, or excursion destinations – all without needing your own car.

It serves around 130 stops in the following municipalities:

Reichenau an der Rax, Payerbach, Schwarzau am Gebirge, Gloggnitz, Schottwien, Semmering und Breitenstein.

The service is flexible, demand-oriented, and tailored to guests –


you call, and the bus comes to you!

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How does it work?

1. Once you check in with us, let us know that you’d like to receive a MobilitätsCard+


(if you’re arriving by train, your booking confirmation is also valid – just tell the driver upon boarding that you’re entitled to a free ride).

2. Book your trip at least one hour in advance. For longer distances (over 10 km), it’s best to book 24 hours ahead!

3. Booking options:

• By phone: +43 660 900 88 22 (daily from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM)

• Or via the free Postbus Shuttle App

4. Show your MobilitätsCard+ when boarding.

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Good to know:

• Trips up to 7.5 km from your accommodation are free of charge.

• For trips over 7.5 km, you pay only 50% of the standard fare.

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Winter Shuttle ❄️⛷️

On weekends and during school holidays in winter, there’s an additional Winter Shuttle, which takes you from Semmering train station to the ski lifts at Hirschenkogel.

A small fee applies – it’s best to inquire when booking.

More info:

👉 www.semmering-rax.com/rufbus-fragen

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We highly recommend it – comfortable, eco-friendly, and perfect for anyone who wants to explore the region at a relaxed pace. 🏞️💚

Schneealpe – Spring instead of winter, sunshine instead of wind

The weather forecast for today didn’t sound inviting: 0 to 6°C and strong winds were predicted for the Schneealpe. So we packed plenty of warm clothing and prepared for wintry conditions – only to be welcomed by spring-like weather, sunshine, and breathtaking views in every direction.

Early in the morning, we took the train to Mürzzuschlag. From there, Katja’s “taxi” brought us to Altenberg an der Rax, where our tour began. The trail led us through the Almgraben up to Windberg, with a break at the Michlbauerhütte. Then we continued through the Lohmgraben to the Kohlebnerstand and finally returned to Altenberg.

Route: Altenberg an der Rax – Almgraben – Windberg – Michlbauerhütte – Lohmgraben – Kohlebnerstand – Altenberg an der Rax

🥾 Distance: 22.15 km

⛰️ Elevation gain: 1,354 m

⏱️ Time: approx. 4:00 h trail run + 1:00 h total break time

The tour had it all: wide-open views, a sunny summit break, a surprise climbing section, a social media photo course at the summit cross, a shoe test, deep conversations, and even more laughter. And in between, a few nuggets of wisdom from 20 to 30 years of marriage – shared by seasoned mountain partners, of course. We are always reminded how lucky we are to experience such adventures together.

To wrap up, we enjoyed a coffee on the terrace at the Waldschlössl – in the sunshine, as clouds slowly gathered and the wind picked up. A fitting end to a thoroughly wonderful tour.

Autumn Magic on the Schneeberg – a Tuesday Afternoon That Turned into Something Special

Ever since we’ve had two kids, we’ve been getting the NÖ-Card (Lower Austria Card – more info here:Schneeberg with kids) every year. And since we’re already invested, we try to make the most of it – even on regular weekdays. So, one Tuesday morning in late October, I checked the weather forecast: ✅. Then the availability on the Salamander train: ✅. And just like that, our plan for the day was set.

This time, we headed up the Schneeberg on the Salamander cog railway. At noon, I picked up Leno from kindergarten, he had a quick nap in the car, and 50 minutes later, we were already having a snack on the train. After a short stop at the playground near the train’s summit station, we set off on a smaller hike – not to Klosterwappen (Lower Austria’s highest point at 2076 m), but up to the Waxriegel. I figured that this route was just the right length to manage in the afternoon with two small kids, but still with a bit of a challenge.

To me, the Waxriegel (1888 m) is a perfect destination with young children: it offers beautiful panoramic views, and the summit area isn’t steep or exposed on any side. The kids could run around freely, and I enjoyed the golden autumn light. From there, we continued to the Damböckhaus hut, with Leno already running ahead. The trail is gentle enough that he could jog down safely. We visited on the very last day the hut was open and even shared a gluten-free lentil stew together.

After the hike, we walked back to the train station, stopping by the Sisi Chapel to watch the sunset. There’s something truly magical about these evenings when the sun sets before dinner – and we can share that golden light together, surrounded by the silence of the mountains, broken only (or rather constantly 😉) by the sounds of our two kids.

Route: Schneeberg cog railway summit – Waxriegel – Damböckhaus – back to the railway

Distance: 3.5 km

Elevation gain: 140 m

Time: It took us about an hour for the loop, and we spent another 1.5 hours taking breaks

📷 We also captured the mood on Instagram – check out the video https://www.instagram.com/reel/DBt_FKUsXSZ/?igsh=MTcwM3Zta3FsZDZqMg==

Sometimes all it takes is a spontaneous idea and a bit of determination – and an ordinary Tuesday afternoon can turn into a memorable adventure.

☕ A “Man-Sunday” as a Father’s Day Gift – or: Coffee with a View

How could one spend Father’s Day in a better way than alone with one’s two sons? 😅 This morning, Zita heroically sacrificed herself and had to go running all alone – so that the three men could finally enjoy a peaceful Sunday together. 🙌🏻

Of course, the boys made sure everyone was up early – which meant Zita could start her run in good time. From Waldschlössl to Kaiserbrunn, it’s 8.5 km. The path from Hirschwang follows the shady Wiener Wasserleitungsweg, winding along the Schwarza River through the Höllental gorge. If there’s such a thing as a perfect summer trail for running or hiking, this is it: shade, babbling water, little bridges, fresh air – what more could you ask for?

Well, maybe a coffee. But for that, the mountain had to be conquered first. After Kaiserbrunn, the path gets steeper and climbs up toward the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben, with stunning views of the Rax and Schneeberg. On the terrace, a well-earned, life-saving espresso was finally waiting for me. ☕💚

The return route led back along familiar paths through the Eng, and after about an hour I was back at the Waldschlössl. What followed was some well-deserved rest with the boys – or at least something that kind of qualifies as rest when you’re with two small children. 😅

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📍 Route: Waldschlössl – Hirschwang – Wasserleitungsweg – Kaiserbrunn – Miesleitensteig – Knofeleben – Mitterberggraben – Eng – Mariensteig – Waldschlössl

📏 Distance: approx. 20 km

⛰️ Elevation gain: 920 m

🕒 Duration: approx. 3h 30min (let’s call it trail running – or at least speed hiking, including a coffee break)

Hike to the Ottohaus – four seasons in one day

On this mild morning at the end of October, we woke up to snowfall and stormy winds – so we tried to delay our start. Just a few hours later, we were climbing uphill in bright sunshine – a completely surreal experience. The mountains are unpredictable, but that’s exactly what makes them magical.

By the time we reached the top, it was clear to both of us: we’ll only return here once the boys can hike on their own.

(Update May 2025 – Zita: Of course I’m still carrying L2 on my back.)

We met our friends at the Ottohaus – they had taken the cable car with their three kids, while we started from Hirschwang and followed the Törlweg. Not long after we arrived, Christian headed straight back: he ran down into the valley alone. I walked with the boys to the cable car station, and we descended together – and arrived at the base station at exactly the same time. We spent a total of four hours on the mountain.

📍 Distance: approx. 10 km

⛰ Elevation gain: approx. 1,150 m

⏱ Duration: 4 hours (gross)

Route: Hirschwang – Törlweg – Ottohaus – Praterstern – Rax cable car station

The most memorable hikes rarely go as planned – and that’s exactly what makes them unforgettable.

A sunset fading into the mist – a silent sunrise above the clouds 🌫🌅

We’ve recommended the hike to Jubiläumsaussicht many times – this week I tested it twice to see if you can rise above the fog. Both times, I was lucky. 🌫🌅

Fog is a rare visitor here in Reichenau – maybe because of all the wind. But growing up in Veszprém (Hungary), I still wait for those foggy November mornings with a childlike excitement, when the Rax disappears from view or the valley wraps itself in a soft mist by late afternoon.

It was 2021. Chris’s dad was visiting us, which kept Leno fully occupied – so I took the chance to head out for a quiet morning run.

I started on the path next to the Waldschlössl, turned right by the new bee hotel under construction, and cut through a short forest section instead of following the paved road. At Hochberger, the surrounding mountains began to emerge, though the hills were still cloaked in thick mist. From there, it was about 25 minutes of brisk walking to the lookout, where the first rays of sunlight gently broke through the fog – a true gift of the weather.

On the way back, I followed the yellow trail: a bit further up the blue path, then left onto the tractor road, and after about half a kilometer, I was back on familiar trails heading home to the Waldschlössl.

If you ever want to experience the peaceful silence of the fog and the slow awakening of the hills, we wholeheartedly recommend this route – short, varied, and full of surprises in every season. 🏞🍂

📍 Distance: 7-9 km

⛰ Elevation gain: approx. 450 m

⏱ Duration: 1 hour 15 minutes – 3 hours (depending on pace)

Route: Waldschlössl – Hochberger (blue trail) – Jubiläumsaussicht – yellow trail – back to Waldschlössl

Lentil soup on the summit, soft breathing in the carrier – a quick hike to Waldburgangerhütte

This time we did a brisk, scenic loop hike starting from Waldschlössl:


Jubiläumsaussicht – Waldburgangerhütte – Schedwiese, then back to the start.

The Waldburgangerhütte is open on weekends and public holidays from May 1 to June 30 and September 1 to October 26 – perfect for a well-earned rest and some refreshments at the top.

There are several ways to reach the hut from Waldschlössl – we followed the blue trail uphill. The Jubiläumsaussicht offers beautiful panoramic views. On the way back, we took the yellow-marked pathvia the Schedwiese, a wide meadow with scenic vistas. If the hiking trail feels too steep, you can switch to the forest road and take the serpentine route down.

📍 Distance: 9.3 km

⛰ Elevation gain: approx. 700 m

⏱ Duration: 2:20 hours

Route: Waldschlössl – Jubiläumsaussicht (blue trail) – Waldburgangerhütte – Schedwiese (yellow trail) – back to Waldschlössl

A great weekend outing – even with kids, if you adjust the pace to fit the youngest hikers.

First Snow in the Mountains ❄️🥾

When your annual family holiday lands at the end of November – and you spend it at home – at least you’re guaranteed not to miss the first snow.

We set out on a short but energetic loop hike, chasing fresh snow up in the hills.

Route:

Waldschlössl – Jubiläumsaussicht – Waldburgangerhütte – Schedkapelle – Werning – Payerbach – Waldschlössl

Details:

📏 ~10 km

📈 +735 m elevation gain

⏱ 2:30 h, brisk pace with a child on Chris’s back

Great views, fresh air, a breezy ridge here and there – we ended tired and happy, with one well-rested kid in the carrier.

🏔 A Not-So-Everyday Schneeberg Hike with a Three-Month-Old Baby

How do you plan a hiking day with a baby carrier and as little gear as possible?

Simple: First, you write a list of the essentials. Then you head out – and leave the list at home. From that point on, all you really need is one thing: improvisation. (Sometimes in very literal ways – like sliding down snow. Without a sled. But we’ll get to that later.)

⸻

At 8:05 a.m., just 200 meters from the Waldschlössl, our neighbor Regina asked me:

– “Are you heading up to Marco today?”

And I honestly didn’t even know yet if we’d make it to the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben.

The route? A Sunday classic: through the Eng, then instead of taking the Mitterberggraben turnoff, we went right toward the Lackabodengraben and continued on the trail toward Krummbachstein.


At the Krummbachsattel, the question arose:

➡️ Should we keep going toward the Schneeberg?

Or

☀️ Stay near Knofeleben, take it easy and enjoy a proper break?

Well:

👶 The baby was asleep.

🌞 The sun was shining.

🌡 The temperature was perfect.

🕙 And it was only 10:00 a.m.

So, we kept going.

⸻

At the ruins of Baumgartnerhaus (10:45), L2 woke up. We found a wind-sheltered spot with some shade and had a quick snack break (🤱🏼).

15 minutes later: another stop – L2 was still not fully on board (🤱🏼). Since I wasn’t sure if the last cogwheel train really left at 3:15 p.m., there wasn’t much room for hesitation. We had to move.

The next stretch was steep and rocky – L2 was not impressed. But after five minutes of mild protest, he fell back asleep. By exactly 12:00 noon, we made it to the top – and I was honestly just relieved we’d made it past that section.

What followed was just a pleasant walk to the Klosterwappen (1:05 p.m.). Truly pleasant. Until we hit a small patch of snow (or rather, ice) just below the Fischerhütte. L2 woke up again – and made it very clear he would prefer to keep sleeping. With curious hikers watching, a slippery path ahead, and the decision came quickly: Sit down in the snow, grab the rope – and slide. Well, I slid. On my butt. L2 screamed. Two minutes later: back asleep. Win.

⸻

All the planned stops (Damböckhaus, Fischerhütte, and Damböckhaus again) were skipped – L2 was sleeping too deeply. And just like that, we found ourselves at the final station of the Schneebergbahn at 2:05 p.m.

⸻

On the train, no one guessed that we hadn’t just hiked down from the Klosterwappen –but had walked the whole way from Reichenau, with baby carrier and all. By 3:00 p.m., we were already waiting in Puchberg for the replacement bus.

I’d love to say that the last walk from Payerbach back to the Waldschlössl was the perfect end to the day – but honestly, those last 90 vertical meters felt more like crawling and silent mantras than hiking, especially three months postpartum. L2? Blissfully napping again.

⸻

📍 Route:

Waldschlössl – Eng – Lackabodengraben – Krummbachsattel – Klosterwappen – Fischerhütte – Damböckhaus – Hochschneeberg mountain station

📏 16.7 km

📈 1,650 m ascent

📉 400 m descent

🕒 6 hours (including two short breaks)

👶 1 baby in the front carrier, backpack in the back

🎒 0 sled

😅 1 slide on the butt

❤️ 100% memories

Semi-optimal is still a win – Sonnwendstein in reverse, coffee forward

A new favorite phrase has quietly made its way into our vocabulary: semi-optimal. We learned it from Anne. And honestly, few things have ever described a trail run quite so perfectly.

The plan: our classic Sonnwendstein route – but backwards. Starting from Waldschlössl, passing through Payerbach, Küb, Schottwien, and Maria Schutz, then climbing the Gebirgsjägersteig, crossing the Sonnwendstein, and finally descending into Semmering. And maybe – just maybe – we thought about running all the way home from there. Theoretically.

Motivation? On holiday today. Probably hanging out somewhere on the Rax. Or at Katja’s. Each of us had at least one excellent excuse why we didn’t really have to do this today. And as for running back from Semmering – well, we happily skipped that part.

In reality, it all ended in the Kaffeehalle. Which honestly was no bad place to end up: excellent coffee, panoramic views, and that comforting feeling of having made one good decision – namely, taking the train. For that cappuccino, we could have climbed another 400 vertical meters. But we didn’t.


Semi-optimal – but with (vegan) milk foam.

The Sonnwendstein? Conquered again – and once again we decided to avoid it for a while. That trail stretches like chewing gum, and by the seventh tree root you start thinking: if we’re climbing this much, why not just head straight to the Rax? 😅

⸻

And if someone asks how it went?

Semi-optimal – but beautiful.

📍 Route: Waldschlössl – Payerbach – Küb – Schottwien – Maria Schutz – Gebirgsjägersteig – Sonnwendstein – Semmering

📏 Distance: 22.4 km

⏱️ Duration: around 4 hours (for the most part, it still qualified as trail running)

⛰️ Elevation: +1300 m, -940 m

In summary:

No run back home, but a great coffee.
No motivation, but plenty of willpower.
No more Sonnwendstein… at least not until next month. 😋

For a day we weren’t really feeling it, it turned out just fine.


Semi-optimal is still a win.

A Wild Kind of Comfort – A Carinthian-Style Hike to the Heukuppe

“At this point, only a helicopter or mountain rescue could get us down,” Chris muttered as we made our way up to the Heukuppe. The kids, snugly bundled in the hiking carrier and wrap, seemed to sense that this wasn’t the time for wild adventures. They just kept sleeping. And honestly, that was for the best.

We had planned a cozy family hike to the Heukuppe, the highest point of the Rax range. And well—cozy is a matter of perspective.

The Reisstalersteig quickly took us into alpine terrain. Chris murmured, “Hmm, I remember this differently…”—possibly because he’d filed away the short via ferrata under easy, back in his child-free, Carinthian hiking days. Technically, it’s not particularly difficult, but it does require sure-footedness, especially at the start, with a steep section and later, two ladders.

We were well-prepared for the weather—an oversized rain jacket for L2 and Z, a rain cover for the child carrier, warm layers—but the thickening fog and gusty wind still made things uncomfortable.

Leno, not yet three years old at the time (June 2023), climbed more than 300 vertical meters on his own—with great pride and determined little steps. It took us about 2 hours and 40 minutes to reach the Heukuppe with both kids.

We took a longer rest at the Karl-Ludwig-Haus—though not inside, since the hut was closed at the time. We sat in the winter room, ate our packed snacks, breastfed the littlest one, and recharged for the descent.

→ Update 2025: The Karl-Ludwig-Haus is now open again!

The way down via the Schlangenweg to the Waxriegelhaus was much more pleasant—solid footing, wind-sheltered, and the rain finally began to let up. That part took about 2 hours, then another 30 minutes back to the Preiner Gscheid.

⸻

Our route:

Preiner Gscheid – Reisstalersteig – Heukuppe – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Schlangenweg – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

→ approx. 10 km and 960 m of elevation gain/loss

⸻

The summary:

💨 Wind, 🌧️ Rain, 🌫️ Fog

🥾 a demanding trail

👣 a not-quite-three-year-old who earned his elevation gain with grit

The sense of comfort wasn’t in the views, but in the challenges we tackled together and the quiet breathing of the kids.

A family hike that was windy, foggy, and rainy – and all the more memorable because of it.

What Might Be on the Other Side of the Tunnel? – A Little Afternoon Exploration

Some days go exactly as planned. Others… don’t. Today, we wanted to head to Prigglitz, but with some luggage to sort, a changeover in the guesthouse, and a well-deserved load of laundry, the day got away from us. So we started later than expected and changed our destination: Grillenberg it was – and we’re so glad we did!

Continue reading “What Might Be on the Other Side of the Tunnel? – A Little Afternoon Exploration”

Chasing Sunshine in November

An adventure blog by Jet

Reichenau is known for its beautiful, sunny days, but even here, November can bring a fair share of fog. The good news? You can still find the sun – you just have to go a bit higher!

Before heading out, check the live webcam of the Rax Seilbahn to see if the mountain is bathing in sunshine. If it is, grab your gear and head up! The easiest way is to take the seilbahn, but for those who like a bit of a challenge, the hike up is well worth the effort.

Getting There

From the first weekend of November, the bus only runs as far as Bertha-Heller-Straße. From this stop, you can hike up to Griessleiten and follow the yellow trail to the Waxriegelhaus. This route winds through smaller forest paths and wider forststrassen, gradually pulling you above the mist into the clear mountain air.

(A Little Extra Adventure

If you’re in the mood for more hiking, consider making a detour up to the Siebenbrunnenwiese and through the Karlgraben. This scenic route offers a bit of a workout, but the views are worth every step. Eventually, you can loop back to the Waxriegelhaus, where you can rest and refuel.)

Refuel and Recharge

At the Waxriegelhaus, Martin, the welcoming Wirt, will have just the right thing to recharge your energy – hearty food, refreshing drinks, and a warm mountain atmosphere. There’s something special about enjoying a meal above the fog, with the sun warming your face and the panoramic views stretching out before you.

Heading Back Down

For the descent, you can take the Helenenquelle trail and follow the Rettenbachgraben back to the bus stop or take the more direct route down from the Waxriegelhaus, as marked on the map.

So, if the November fog has you feeling a bit low, remember – the sun isn’t gone, it’s just a little higher up. Happy hiking! 🌞🗻

Route: Bertha-Heller-Straße – Griesleiten  – Waxriegelhaus – Helenenquelle – Rettenbachgraben – Bertha-Heller-Straße

Distance: 11 km

⏳ Depending on who you’re with, we’ve finished it in anything from 2:30 minutes to 4 hours

Elevation gain: 750 m

Afternoon Hike to the Luckerte Wand 🌿☀️

We made the most of the sunny weather and set off on a short but stunning hike with our visitors! Just a 15-20 minute drive brought us to Orthof, where we started our journey to the Luckerte Wand and continued to the Gaiskirche, a charming little chapel tucked away in the forest.

Route: Orthof – Luckerte Wand – Gaiskirche – Orthof

Distance: 5.5 km

⏳ About 2 hours with kids

Elevation Gain: 277 m

The trail is varied but easy to navigate, and the views make every step worthwhile! If you’re looking for a relatively short yet impressive hike in the area, this one’s a perfect choice. ⛰️🌲

📍 Start: Google Maps

Talhof Loop – Perfect for a Short Run or a Relaxed Walk

Perfect for anyone training for the Vienna Business Run (😋) or just looking for a relaxed, relatively flat 4.2 km route nearby – or even a peaceful nature walk. The Talhof Loop is a great choice in (almost) any weather and can even be tackled with a sturdy, off-road stroller.

Route: Waldschlössl – Scheiterplatz – Talhof – Talhofstraße – Rudolfvilla – Schneedörflstraße – Waldschlössl

Distance: 4.2 km

⏳ Depending on who you’re with, we’ve finished it in anything from 30 minutes to 2 hours

Elevation gain: 120 m

Speedy Aunties on the Rax – A Mother’s Day Trail

Forget brunch – this Mother’s Day, we decided to conquer the Rax. We kicked off our adventure at the parking lot by the main road, strapped on our backpacks, and hit the Rudolfsteig. Just 3 kilometers in, and we’d already climbed 850 meters. Anne’s smile might not have been entirely genuine on some of the more exposed sections, but who could blame her? The views made it all worth it.

The trail continued steeply through the forest, and after around 4 kilometers and 1100 meters of climbing, we reached the Gloggnitzer Hütte – the perfect spot for a quick breather and a warm elderflower drink.

For the descent, we opted for the faster route: a wide forest road through Hirschtal and on into the Kleine Höllental.

17 kilometers with 1200 meters of elevation gain in just 4 hours – the official time to the hut alone is 4.5 hours. Now that’s a Mother’s Day we can get behind – powerful, together, and packed with altitude.

Höllental Parkplatz – Rudolfsteig – Gloggnitzer Hütte – Großer Kesselgraben – Hirschtal – Kleines Höllental (forest road) and back

Parking: Here

Morning Coffee with a View – Kicking Off the Weekend on the Trail

“Good morning. Just a heads-up: we’ve got no water in the entire house this morning. Haven’t had my coffee yet 🤪” – that’s how Anne’s day started.

For us, the mission was clear: Speckbacherhütte, as quickly as possible! Just after 9 a.m., we finally had that much-needed first coffee in hand – and the world felt right again.

Four ladies, fresh mountain air, a beautifully sunny day, and a trail that took us from the Waldschlössl, over the Stojerhöhe, up to the Speckbacherhütte, and then back down through Mayerhöfen and Reichenau. It was still cool and crisp in the valley, but warm and sunny at the top – perfect for taking deep breaths and stretching the legs.

On the final climb, we picked up the pace a bit, making it (well, almost) back home by 10:30 a.m., just in time to take over the kids, so Christian could start his workday.

A trailrun with 14 kilometers and 740 meters of elevation in 2 hours and 20 minutes – a perfect start to the weekend.

Route: Waldschlössl – Payerbachgraben – Stojerhöhe – Speckbacherhütte – Mayerhöfen – Reichenau – Waldschlössl 

Elevation Instead of Flowers – A Name Day on the Trail

“A 30 km loop with 1,500 meters of elevation gain, ideally with three 500-meter climbs – can you be our guide for that?” Egon asked me a few weeks ago.

“Sure,” I said. “We’ll just squeeze in a couple of coffee breaks—then you’ll get your three climbs.”

“Let’s keep it focused,” Egon added. “The goal is to finish in under six hours.”

Challenge accepted.

That was the simple plan. It was surprisingly crisp when I stood in front of the Waldschlössl at 7:15 a.m.—but the slight tingle in my legs told me: today would be something special.

By 8:30, we were already at the top of the first climb (700 m gain). Egon grinned, clearly pleased. I took a five-minute break—almost mandatory according to my training plan. That morning, the apple juice with hot water at the Knofeleben mountain hut tasted like a holiday drink. Cheers to that!

Since moving to Austria, I sometimes forget that in Hungary, we celebrate name days. But honestly—what better way to spend it than out on the trails with someone like Egon? A trail expert, running buddy, and all-around motivator.

He was the one who introduced me to trail running—before we even moved to Reichenau—after I got into ultrarunning through him. And today, he showed me something new again: how to use trail poles properly (thanks, Anne!) and how to run downhill efficiently.

Single trails? Bring it on!

Our route:

Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Knofeleben – Krummbachstein – Emmysteig – Waxriegel – Baumgartner – Bodenwiese – Waldburgangerhütte – Waldschlössl.

By the end, my watch showed 29.7 km and 1,770 meters of elevation gain in 5:45, including breaks—featuring (more or less) three solid, rewarding climbs.

A name day morning filled with views, apple juice, trail running, two summit crosses, lots of laughs, new skills—and one (or rather two) big smiles. And the sense of being exactly where I’m meant to be.

Spring Hike to the Waxriegelhaus – Fresh Air, Stunning Views, and Tired Little Legs

Last week, we took advantage of the beautiful spring weather and headed to the Waxriegelhaus. A special thanks to our wonderful neighbor, who not only kept us company but also made Leno’s midday nap possible – carrying a child on your back is no small feat! ❤️

We started at the Preiner Gscheid, sitting at 1,070 meters, just a 20-minute drive from our place, though it’s also accessible by bus from spring to autumn. From here, you have a few options for reaching the Waxriegelhaus:
• The longer, more gradual tractor path: about 3.5 km one way, with 300 to 350 meters of elevation gain – perfect for a steady hike.
• The steeper, shorter route: around 1.5 km one way, with the same elevation gain, for those who like a bit of a challenge.

Despite the usual snow at this altitude, we were lucky to enjoy bright sunshine, breathtaking views over a sea of fog, and a fantastic lentil stew at the Waxriegelhaus as a reward.

We took about 1.5 hours for the 3.8 km round trip, including a short nap break for Leno on the way up. On the way down, we had to pick up the pace to keep up with our little “express train,” who decided to tackle the whole descent on foot.

It’s an ideal short hike for families, and if there’s enough snow, it’s even perfect for a sled ride back down. On clear days, you can also continue up to the Rax peaks for even more spectacular views.

From the Sun Promenade to the Depths of the Earth – an Adventure for Any Weather

If the weather isn’t on your side, there’s still plenty to discover around Waldschlössl! A great rainy day option: the Grillenberg Show Mine.

About 5.5 km there and back, with 200 meters of elevation – perfect for a short trail run or a walk with kids! The path along the Sun Promenade offers double the reward: fresh air and an underground adventure. In the former iron ore mine, you’ll learn all about Austria’s geological treasures in small, personalized tours – with informative displays making the experience even more enjoyable.

Tip: Tours are only available by prior reservation!

Phone: +43 2666 52423-12


Guided tours are in German only.

Preiner Gscheid – Gretchensteig – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Neue Seehütte – Göbl Kühn Steig – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

I always get a kick out of overhearing Hungarian hikers on the Rax. They tend to assume they’re the only ones around who understand their conversations:
“Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”


But let’s start from the beginning. I’ve owed you this trip report for about two months now, but with another round of Rax-loving guests arriving tomorrow, I finally found the motivation to write it up.

When Zsófi visited us in June, we knew we had to take her on a proper Rax adventure – you know, something for the memory bank. 😉

We set off on a sunny June morning (Zsófi and L) and a bit later in the day (Zita and L2), heading down to the train station in Payerbach. From there, we took a bus to the Preiner Gscheid, where our hike started about 30 minutes later. (And by the way, if you can decipher the bus timetable, you deserve a 10% discount on your next booking – here’s the challenge: Timetable.)

The lower sections of the Reisstalersteig and the Gretchensteig share the same path almost all the way to the Reisstalerhütte. Just before you reach the hut, a steep trail branches off to the right, offering fantastic views – at least until you’re swallowed up by the forest again. This is where Zsófi and L took a quick break, and I, driven by the motto “anything for a peaceful nap”, pushed on with L2.
This stretch eventually leads up to the Gretchensteig itself. Just before the actual via ferrata, there’s a rocky section, which, if you ask me, is trickier than the secured climbing passage that follows – but I’ll let everyone judge that for themselves.

“Wait, is that a kid up there?!”
“Hey, that’s a woman! Where’s her husband? Probably at home mowing the lawn.”
“No way she’s making it up there. We barely managed to come down. There’s got to be another way.”
“Of course, my kids sleep in the car, but these Austrians seem to do things differently…”

As the Hungarian group (decked out in full via ferrata gear) slowly picked their way down what they clearly considered “challenging” terrain, I had plenty of time to translate their colorful commentary for the Austrian hiker beside me – who, by the way, described the section as “no big deal”. Safe to say, we both got a good laugh out of it. 😉

And honestly, this whole encounter is a perfect example of how the same mountain trail can feel like a completely different challenge depending on who you are and how you approach it.




Once we reached the top, we skipped the usual break at the Karl-Ludwig-Haus and continued straight to the Neue Seehütte. About 30 minutes before reaching the hut, we had to pause for a quick hillside picnic (L2’s idea), before tackling a steeper descent that ended with a fantastic, gluten-free, vegan lentil stew.

The mountain had one last surprise for us – a sudden hailstorm (oh, June, you never fail to keep us on our toes) – before we met back up with Zsófi and L at the Waxriegelhaus. Together, we made it just in time for the last bus down.

Final stats: Roughly 12 km, around 900 meters of elevation gain and loss, and about 5 hours of hiking time with L2, plus three snack breaks. And as a little parting gift, we even caught a rainbow on our way back – a nice way to make up for the earlier hailstorm. 🌈

Preiner Gscheid – Gretchensteig – Karl-Ludwig-Haus – Neue Seehütte – Göbl Kühn Steig – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid

Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Naturfreundehaus auf der Knofeleben und zurück

When We Don’t Feel Like Making Plans…

..we just head west.

At the second junction, we take the middle road toward Talhof, then the second forest path on the right – the one that leads up to the Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben. No need for heavy packs today, since we know we’ll be up there in less than two hours, and we can skip cooking for the day.
Marco’s Naturfreundehaus is one of those rare places where both of us have plenty of options: almost everything on the menu is gluten-free, and the vegan selection keeps growing.
Today’s menu:

Pumpkin soup for L2, Ch, and Z
Potato goulash with beans for L1, L2, and Z
Blueberry strudel for Christian and L1
And, of course, a special oat milk latte for Z, as Marco likes to say, “Just for Mrs. Waldschlössl.” 😉

Both the hike up and down took about 1 hour 45 minutes each. Impressively, L1 managed the entire descent on his own, except for a 500-meter stretch. (On the way up, though, he mostly hitched a ride or took his time, so the boys – Ch and L1 – arrived about 20 minutes after us, but at least we had a table waiting by then.)

Route: Waldschlössl – Mariensteig – Eng – Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben – and back

Total: about 11.75 km, 730 meters of elevation gain.

Closed Until 2028 Waldschlössl – Jagdsteig – Mittagstein – Waldburgangerhütte – Eng – Wald

Somewhere Below Mittagstein

At some point below Mittagstein, I stopped taking photos. Right around then, I also made two important decisions: I need proper hiking boots, and I need trekking poles. Chris, just six weeks post-surgery for his double ligament tear, found the trail pleasant. I found it – how should I put it – rather adventurous.

Continue reading “Closed Until 2028 Waldschlössl – Jagdsteig – Mittagstein – Waldburgangerhütte – Eng – Wald”

A Day on Schneeberg with the Salamander Railway – Lessons Learned

When the wind is strong, we only recommend this trip if…

  • your Lower Austria Card (NÖ-Card) is about to expire and you want to make the most of your last chance (that was our situation – the cog railway stops running from the middle of November until spring),
  • you happen to be in the area and there’s no other day that works (some of our guests went under these exact conditions),
  • or you’re up for a bit of a challenge (like my friend Évi) – though ideally without kids… unless you want the full challenge. 😉

A quick heads-up: the Rax cable car tends to be shut down about twice a year due to bad weather. And yes, we somehow picked one of those days for our little adventure.

From Waldschlössl to Puchberg, you can either take the train (with a change in Wiener Neustadt, so it takes a bit longer), or drive – it’s about 40 minutes by car through charming little villages. This time, we (Zita, L1 and L2) opted for the car.

By the way, from Puchberg (and from Waldschlössl), it’s also possible to hike up to Schneeberg on foot and simply meet up with your kids or other family members at the top.

A note on prices (as of 2025):
You can buy a regular ticket for the cog railway:
– €43.50 for a round trip
– €30.50 for a one-way ride
Children under six travel free, although officially only one child is allowed per adult.
There’s also a combined Rax–Schneeberg ticket, which is valid for two years and costs €64 for adults (2025).
Or, you can get a Lower Austria Card, which covers both mountain railways (and much more). The card is valid for a year starting April 1 until the end of March (€83 for adults).

Back to the trip:
The cog railway takes you up to 1,800 meters in about 40 minutes. From the top station, if it’s not too windy, you can walk with young children to the 1,888-meter-high Waxriegel and enjoy lunch at the Damböckhaus.

From Damböckhaus, there are two ways up to the 2,076-meter summit:
A steeper and trickier path from the left, or a more gradual (but longer) route that leads toward Fischerhütte.

In this “pleasant breeze” we managed to reach the Damböckhaus, and after about 15 minutes the kids had fully adjusted and weren’t fazed by the storm anymore.
Near the top station, the wind gusts were truly wild – but after that, let’s just say it was “only mildly unpleasant.”
The upside of hiking with two kids of the perfect age and weight: one in front, one on the back – and you don’t get blown away. 😉

Conclusion:
Check the weather forecast carefully before you go.
The views are stunning even in stormy conditions.
By the time we got back down, the summit was completely hidden in fog – and snow had started to fall.

Gluten-Free Adventures – Recommendations Around Waldschlössl

As we prepare to open our café, we’ve been gathering all sorts of experiences – the good, the bad, and the delicious. Here, we’ve put together a list of our favorite gluten-free options in the area, but as always, be sure to double-check when you visit. This is just a quick overview to help you navigate the local restaurants, mountain huts, and shops.

Schloss Stuben


A traditional Austrian inn with a cozy, rustic vibe. So far, the trout with lecsó has been a reliable gluten-free choice. Haven’t tested the rest of the menu yet, but there are always salads and other safe options.
🌐 schloss-stube.gusti.at

Payerbacherhof


Another classic Austrian spot with a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The staff are very attentive, but be sure to mention celiac disease clearly – and maybe even double-check.
🌐 payerbacherhof.at

Reichenauerhof


One of our all-time favorites – we’ve never had any trouble finding gluten-free options here. Sadly, it’s temporarily closed at the moment.
🌐 reichenauerhof.com

Cake Shop:


Le petit Pâtisserie


A charming little patisserie in Reichenau, known for its stunning cakes. The owner, Sophie Hirschegger, puts incredible effort into her creations. They’re as delicious as they are beautiful. Note: the opening hours are a bit limited.

🌐 lepetitpatisserie.at

Eurospar and Billa in Reichenau


Both stores have a solid selection of gluten-free products. Each has a dedicated gluten-free section, and Billa even offers gluten-free Kaiser rolls in the frozen aisle.

Naturfreundehaus Knofeleben


About 6.5 km and 700 meters of elevation from us, this is one of our favorite hiking destinations. It’s not accessible by car, but it’s worth the trek. Nearly everything here is gluten-free unless obviously not (e.g., bread, certain soups). Just ask Marco, the hut manager, for guidance.
🌐 knofeleben.at

Speckbacher Hütte


Another great hiking destination, though this one is also reachable by car. Alexandra, the hut keeper, is very knowledgeable about gluten-free options and always happy to help. Highly recommended.
🌐 die-speckbacher.at

Looshaus am Kreuzberg


A popular spot with fantastic views and excellent food. We’ve had great experiences here every time – never a problem with gluten-free options.
🌐 looshaus.at

Waldburgangerhütte

About 4 km (and 650 meters of elevation) from Waldschlössl, this hut is run by Maria, who bakes and cooks everything herself. The lentil soup and cranberry cake are both gluten-free. The hut is open on weekends and public holidays from May 1 to June 30, and from September 1 to October 26.

Pottschacherhütte


A good choice if you’re planning a longer hike or a relaxed bike ride, or if you prefer a shorter walk from the parking area. Just ask Bianca, the hut keeper, about gluten-free options.
🌐 pottschacherhuette.naturfreunde.at

Waxriegelhaus (Rax)


One of our top winter spots. Just a 20-minute drive from Waldschlössl to Preiner Gscheid, then a 3.5 km hike up (or 1.8 km if you take the shortcut over the meadows – about 300-350 meters of elevation gain). They usually have soup, lentil stew, and occasionally sausages and gluten-free bread.

In winter, the way back down is a fun 1.8 km sledding run. In spring and summer, it’s a great family destination or a nice spot to wait for the bus after a longer Rax tour.
🌐 waxriegelhaus.naturfreunde.at

 

Neue Seehütte (Rax)


I’ve generally had good experiences with smaller huts where you can talk directly to the owner, and this one is no exception. The lentil soup was a safe choice here, as it often is.
🌐 neue-seehuette.at

Damböckhaus (Schneeberg)


Another absolute recommendation. About 15-20 minutes from the cog railway’s top station on Schneeberg, or about an hour if you take the route via Waxriegel. For those feeling ambitious, you can hike up all the way from us – but that’s quite a trek, so let’s chat about it first. They usually have gluten-free rolls, lentil soup, and more.
🌐 damboeckhaus.at

Filzwieser’s Berggasthaus Friedrichhütte (Stuhleck)


A bit of a local secret for those skiing at Stuhleck. You’ll need to ask about gluten-free options, but they usually have one or two good choices.
🌐 friedrichhuette.at

Autumn Bliss Above the Clouds

On a beautiful November day, we embarked on the Preiner Gscheid – Martinsteig – Heukuppe – Habsburghaus – Preiner Wand – Neue Seehütte – Waxriegelhaus – Preiner Gscheid trail, which is almost 21 km long and includes 1500 meters of elevation gain (+ and -). We spent 7 hours on the trail, taking our time with the ascent, jogging a bit at the top, and enjoying two short breaks. It was just Gina and me, no kids this time.

We drove to Preiner Gscheid by car, where we set off on a new and exciting route for us. The Martinsteig reminded me a bit of the Gretchensteig. After reaching Heukuppe, we continued to the Habsburghaus. By the time we got there, it was, of course, closed, but we still took a break on the terrace. The November sunshine made the moment extra special. The weather was simply perfect.

This hike was a true gem, with stunning views and a peaceful atmosphere, making it well worth the effort.

🥾 Hiking in the Area?

❓ Your most frequently asked questions – answered in a nutshell

Since we opened, we’ve received lots of questions about hiking – especially from people who are new to it or didn’t grow up in the mountains. Most of them are from international guests, and we totally get it – alpine hiking can be a bit different! This little guide is based on our experiences over the past few years. It’s more practical than funny – but we promise, it’s worth the read.

👉 If you’re already familiar with terms like elevation gain, microspikes, or mountain rescue memberships, you might not need this post 😉

📌 Before you set off – do you have a plan?

  1. Check the weather! Always check the forecast in the morning – and keep an eye on it during the hike too. Mountain weather can change quickly.

2. Bring a rain jacket & warm clothing. Even if it’s warm when you start, the summit can be 10°C colder and much windier. Functional clothing helps – especially when you’re sweating on the way up.

3. See snow on the Rax? That means it’s cold and slippery up there. Don’t go with just running shoes and a T-shirt. Microspikes are a must in that case. (Yes, if the top looks white, it is snow 😉)

4. Pack a headlamp! Especially from late autumn through winter – it gets dark early.

5. Know the emergency number: 140 That’s mountain rescue. Already a member of the Alpine Club? Or thinking of supporting mountain rescue? ➡️ It’s just €32 per year and covers you, your partner, and kids under 18. Info (choose Reichenau;)): bergrettung-nw.at

6. Essentials in your backpack: Emergency blanket, water, snacks – always.

7. Phone charged? Cold weather drains batteries faster – keep an eye on it.

8. Install a hiking app. We use mapy.cz, but there are many good ones. A helpful addition to careful tour planning. Or grab a map from our café!

9. This isn’t flat terrain. Please stay on marked trails. If you’ve gone off-track – turn back and find the path again.

10. Elevation gain – what is that? 10 km with 100 m ascent is very different from 10 km with 1,000 m ascent. Just for reference: the walk to the nearest supermarket here includes 80 m of uphill 😄 The Rax summit is at 2,007 m, Schneeberg reaches 2,076 m.

😄 By the way:

These are just 10 of the (literally) hundreds of questions we’ve been asked! Got something else on your mind? Drop us a message – we’re happy to add your question to the list!

A Birthday Beyond the Marathon

A deeply personal story of running addiction

There’s definitely some truth to it: once you start running, it becomes an addiction. And this addiction is contagious.

Birthday Wishes

I had a milestone birthday in February. And what could I have wished for more than a running vacation? Edit chose the destination: Rome. When I told Gina, she just laughed: “I’ve been signed up for ages. Josef, Erwin, Richi, and Barbara are coming too.” And she wasn’t joking.

Since there was no half marathon in Rome, Edit, Évi, and I signed up for the full 42 km back in the fall. “If you can do a half, you can do the full…” I tried to motivate the ladies. What I didn’t mention at home was that Rome wasn’t the final stop for me. Three weeks later, I was planning to run a trail race—an ultra trail, to be precise—one that had been on my mind for a while: 53 km with 1,500 meters of elevation, near Wiener Neustadt. To make sure no one could talk me out of it, I signed up right away. And just like that, my birthday party was set.

Which is how we ended up celebrating Christian’s birthday (in March) in Rome. I celebrated with a marathon. Christian celebrated by enjoying a long weekend off work with all of us 🤭.

The Guest List

The most important prep step was probably getting through the winter without any major illnesses—largely thanks to our neighbors Karin and Grandpa Christian.

In recent months, it had become a tradition on our days off (thanks, Christian!) to explore new routes with a lovely women’s group: Anne, Gina, and Katja. You could call it a “girls run”—if we weren’t all between 40 and 61. Évi and Edit and I mostly motivated each other online.

Rome and the Marathon as Endurance Training

The marathon weekend was beautiful, even though the kids already had colds when we boarded the train—and once again, the railway wasn’t exactly winning any punctuality awards. We bumped into many familiar faces—some just for a quick hello, others we had time to catch up with over walks or dinner. Évi and I ran about 20 km of the marathon together.

The Final Training Push

Back home, it was time for the finishing touches: a training camp with Auntie Dunja (others might call it a kid-friendly thermal hotel), a family hike with extra weight (aka hiking with kids) with Nana and her friends, a last-minute patch job on my running pack by my sister Gabi, and Christian’s parents took over full weekend responsibility for our two children (also known as happy kids, happy grandparents).

Let the Party Begin: Rosalia Trail Challenge

We waited for the start inside a warm building with others from our club (ULT Heustadlwasser). Kata was there too—without her, I might never have understood or even tried trail running. My experienced support crew, Zita and Ági, were following the event live from Hungary, sending updates by the hour.

We waited for the start inside a warm building with others from our club (ULT Heustadlwasser). Kata was there too—without her, I might never have understood or even tried trail running. My experienced support crew, Zita and Ági, were following the event live from Hungary, sending updates by the hour.

And We’re Off!

“The Rome marathon was the perfect long training run for today,” I told Erwin shortly after the start. He grinned: “You’re calling a marathon a training run now? Looks like we’ve successfully infected you over the years.”

And on we ran.

Gina and I paced through the first half quickly. At 10:14 a.m., we caught up with Karin and Grandpa Christian climbing uphill—just enough time for a few photos. We didn’t need to say much. We all knew how lucky we were to share this moment. (And yes: Karin’s already planning to join next year’s Rosalia Trail Challenge. First signs of addiction are definitely showing.)

At around kilometer 30, I thought of our son Leno, who was just about to start his spring race in Payerbach. This year he was representing the family alone—we’re hoping the two events don’t fall on the same day again next year.

I knew our pace was a bit ambitious, but today I wanted to feel that. To find my limits. That’s when running works its magic: your mind clears, stress fades into the background, your heart races—and yet you feel calm inside. Emotions surface. The world feels simpler. Life becomes lighter.

I barely noticed when we passed the marathon mark. I was just happy to be running through the valley. My mind and legs knew this feeling well. Ten kilometers more or less made no difference.

At the finish line, Katja and Grandpa Christian were waiting. Gina and I arrived nearly together. This running family—our friends—they’re something special. Without them, so much would be different. We would be different. It’s something that becomes addictive. With or without running. Together on the journey. Yet each of us on our own unique path.

The Day After

On Sunday, a rare opportunity came up: an hour alone with my husband.

– “We could drive to Looshaus for lunch with my parents,” Christian said, “but we don’t all fit in the car.”

– “It’s just 5 km,” I replied. “Maybe a few hills. Let’s run.”

We explored the Hermannshöhle – a weatherproof family adventure

When the weather isn’t suitable for outdoor activities, the Hermannshöhle in Kirchberg am Wechsel is a great alternative: It’s about a 25-minute drive from here. From the parking area, it’s just a 5-minute walk to the entrance.

The Hermannshöhle is the largest dripstone cave in Lower Austria. The passages extend for about 4 km over several levels, with a height difference of 73 meters. The cave is one of the most important winter shelters for bats in the region – up to 17 species are known to hibernate there. In spring and autumn, there are also special bat-themed tours.

The guided tours last about one hour, are only offered in German, and usually start at 9:30, 11:00, 13:30, 15:00, and 16:30. Visiting the cave is only possible as part of a guided tour.

On a rainy day, the Hermannshöhle is a lovely option for an outing. For families with small children, it can be a bit of a challenge, as the tour is more geared towards adults and not specifically designed with kids in mind. However, with a little patience and preparation, the visit can still be enjoyable. With the NÖ-Card, the classic tour is free.

A Frosty Christmas at the Waldschlössl

This year, we celebrated Christmas at home. For December 26th, we planned a short family hike to add some movement to the holiday season.

We took the train to the Wolfsbergkogel stop and started a relaxed circular walk with the extended family, passing the Doppelreiteraussicht and the 20-Schilling viewpoint. This section is perfect for a family outing: only about 2 kilometers long with just 60 meters of elevation gain – and the views are absolutely worth it. Since we were already there, we couldn’t skip the summit of the Wolfsbergkogel either.

After the hike, the family headed back home – and I was granted a few hours of freedom: a quiet Christmas afternoon just for myself. I didn’t hesitate – I set off running.

The route was magical. The calm of winter, the frosty landscape, icy paths here and there, and the golden light of the setting sun created a fairytale atmosphere. I stopped at the Speckbacherhütte for a coffee and a short chat. From there, I continued on familiar trails down into the valley, all the way back to the Waldschlössl.

The full distance came to 17.2 km, with 620 meters of ascent and 1,020 meters of descent. I needed 2 hours and 30 minutes net time.

Route: Wolfsbergkogel – Falkenstein – Ortshof – Speckbacherhütte – Mayerhöfen – Waldschlössl.

Festive spirit, family hike, winter nature, silence, trail running – everything one could wish for at Christmas.